San Francisco Chronicle

Lake is just the beginning

- — Spud Hilton, travel editor

If today’s marketing gurus had been around in the 19th century, Lake County most likely would have been named Lake and Other Cool Stuff County.

There’s a lake, sure. A big one. Possibly the oldest one in North America and the largest freshwater lake entirely in California (Tahoe clearly has divided loyalties). But there are other wonders here, many of them overlooked by all but the thorough traveler.

There are pint-size lakes with an Alpine vibe, a welcoming wine community, volcanic landscape and soil, fresh produce by the truckload, diamond-like stones known in ancient times as “moon tears,” evolving restaurant scenes, an odd obsession with quilts, and tiny vacation towns that maintain a hospitable feel — even when the season is over. The charms here are just quieter, less crowded and more spread out.

So unlike the more linear, more orderly attraction­s of backyard neighbors Napa and Sonoma, Lake County’s “cool stuff” is best suited to leisurely wandering. And that can be a good thing.

Wander toward the north and the sprawling Mendocino National Forest, an expanse of protected wilderness that takes up almost a third of Lake County. Wander south among the towns and resorts that thrived in the 19th century from the heated mineral waters of one of the most active geothermal regions in the country. Wander south of the lake to where bicycle routes wind through gentle hills of forest, orchards and vineyards. Wander to the craggy summit of Wright Peak on Mount Konocti and soak up the dramatic vistas. Wander southeast into the relatively young Berryessa Snow Mountain National Monument, where the wildlife and wildflower­s are far more plentiful than visitors.

Then there’s the lake itself. A magnet for all manner of water enthusiast­s, for fishing, for sport-boating and sailing, for kayaking and, because the water temperatur­e can reach 75 degrees, just plain old swimming. Get active on the water, or just sit back and enjoy the view from one of the campground­s, cabins and resorts that ring Clear Lake.

Or just wander around it and see what you find.

 ?? James Tensuan / Special to The Chronicle 2016 ??
James Tensuan / Special to The Chronicle 2016
 ??  ?? Rain Darden fishes at Library Park on the shore of Clear Lake, the largest freshwater lake entirely in California and the main attraction — but hardly the only one — in Lake County.
Rain Darden fishes at Library Park on the shore of Clear Lake, the largest freshwater lake entirely in California and the main attraction — but hardly the only one — in Lake County.

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