San Francisco Chronicle

Company helping Mars breed better cacao trees

- By Bryce Gray Bryce Gray is a St. Louis Post-Dispatch writer.

The world loves chocolate. But keeping pace with global cravings can be a tall order for chocolate producers — a challenge made even tougher as climate change and disease threaten the world’s cocoa supply.

The threat has prompted major companies like candy bar giant Mars — which makes Snickers, M&M’s, and Dove chocolate, among other products — to find a solution in biotechnol­ogy.

The company said this month that it has hired Benson Hill Biosystems, a Missouri biotech firm, to outfit it with computing tools to help develop more resilient cacao trees, which produce the beans used to make chocolate.

“Cacao is a pretty fragile crop, increasing­ly affected by climate change and disease pressure,” said Howard Shapiro, chief agricultur­al officer for Mars. “Forty percent of the crop is lost each year due to fungal, viral, and pest problems. This is a huge problem for manufactur­ers like Mars.”

“If it’s hotter and it’s more moist, there are vectors for disease that can thrive more in that environmen­t,” said Matt Crisp, Benson Hill’s president and CEO. “In some cases with crops like this, they are deforestin­g higher elevations to move the crop into altitudes where … it’s cooler, and is resemblant of the environmen­t that this plant might have grown in 20 or 30 years ago, when it was really thriving or more stably being produced.”

Benson Hill will help the Mars cacao experts — who have bred the plant for 20 years — by designing software that uses data on plant genetics and traits to speed up and streamline the breeding process.

“What our platform is working to do is tap into that natural genetic diversity of the cacao tree,” Crisp said. “We can use Benson Hill’s CropOS analytics engine to understand how we can more rapidly tap into that genetic diversity and find lines of genetic variance that make that plant less susceptibl­e to these types of conditions.”

Developed by Benson Hill over the past 2½ years, the technique uses machine learning and artificial intelligen­ce to couple plants’ genomic informatio­n with records of their physical traits, often gleaned through years of observatio­ns and field studies.

It “basically accesses a lot of the informatio­n that these companies have collected over the years,” said Dylan Kesler, a lead data scientist for Benson Hill and a former assistant professor at the University of Missouri.

The approach can shave years off the developmen­t process, while also narrowing the plant breeding options that companies like Mars have to weigh for field trials.

“Say instead of taking 10 years, we can take five years. Instead of taking 10,000 options, let’s start with the best 500,” Kesler said. “We simulate those offspring with machine learning to predict the quality of those offspring.”

Computatio­nal breeding and other advancemen­ts such as genome editing and sequencing combine for what Mars and Benson Hill see as opportunit­ies in new areas of agricultur­e.

“Cocoa is one of the top 10 commoditie­s traded globally and yet it lags behind other crops in terms of scientific research,” Shapiro said.

“This is the type of technology that the big guys historical­ly have had, but have focused on developing a very few number of crops,” said Crisp, naming corn and soybeans as top examples honed by major agribusine­ss companies. “It’s our belief that there are dozens if not hundreds of other crops that deserve innovation.”

As Crisp points out, other commoditie­s have been hit by disease or other threats. Bananas, papayas and Florida oranges are all examples dominated by monocultur­es — meaning a single crop variety — and jeopardize­d by disease.

Crisp said commercial cacao trees have more diversity than those, but that an overall lesson — about using biotech as a catalyst for much-needed genetic diversific­ation — is still applicable.

“We’ve got to get deliberate about tapping into that natural genetic diversity, or we’re just going to keep hearing about these stories over and over and over again. Crisp said. “The ‘this disease is going to decimate that crop.’ And the story line is just going to keep playing.”

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