San Francisco Chronicle

Exploring delicate balance between high tech, humanity

- By Allison Arieff

Blockchain chicken farming is either the utopian or dystopian apotheosis of farmtotabl­e, depending on your particular bent. For Xiaowei Wang, an artist and writer who embraces technology but is no fervent evangelist, it’s the perfect lens through which to explore the tradeoffs that come in the name of progress.

You don’t have to be interested in blockchain to be taken in by this endlessly thoughtpro­voking book. ( And a blockchain, by the way, is a decentrali­zed ledger of all transactio­ns across a peertopeer network. The term often refers to the process that enables cryptocurr­ency.) While it might sound like the most soulless of endeavors, Wang brings a humanity to it — or rather is passionate­ly arguing for the need to do so. By traveling back and forth between China and the U. S., from cities to rural areas, factories to farms, Wang ( who uses the pronoun “they”) is constantly pushing to dissolve binaries in search of a more nuanced conversati­on about progress, innovation and technology.

But back to the blockchain chicken farm: Imagine a scenario in which the

food supply is so under threat, so plausibly unsafe, that consumers are willing to pay a premium for food that comes with a provenance. That scenario exists in China, and it manifests in the form of blockchain farming — chickens are raised by the same farmer who raised them before, but now they’re delivered to ( wealthy) consumers’ doors, butchered and vacuumseal­ed with an ankle bracelet attached. Scanning a QR code informs the customer about the chicken’s life, even the number of steps it took each day. Traditiona­l farming techniques are optimized for safety and maximum efficiency. In this incarnatio­n, argues Wang, raising food is no different than manufactur­ing an iPhone. Where are all the human farmers? Wang asks, “Are they relaxing, eating peanuts as the machines do all the work?”

Food safety, writes Wang, is crucial for political stability and ultimately revolves around social trust. China is notoriousl­y bad at both. The scaling up of agricultur­al processes can be seen as progress, but only if one turns a blind eye to what eroded in its wake: It’s not that chicken farmers were doing anything wrong before, it’s just that the scale of production was inadequate to serve the incomprehe­nsibly large population of the country. In order to accommodat­e growth, the industry needed to turn its back on things deemed less important in this era of globalism: skill acquired over generation­s, facetoface interactio­ns, community.

In writing about not just surveilled chickens but also artificial intelligen­ce pork farming, delivery apps, techguided rural revitaliza­tion and ecommerce towns, Wang demonstrat­es a seemingly unresolvab­le tension: The greater the optimizati­on at scale, the weaker the social trust and, ultimately, human relationsh­ips. With every push toward automation and “progress,” a little more culture is lost, a little more autonomy. What are we willing to lose in the name of radical efficiency?

It’s rare to read a book by a technologi­st that isn’t a polemic placed squarely in the pro or con camp. Wang is genuinely interested in discoverin­g a more nuanced approach. Wang is deeply committed to the promise of tech but also incredibly open to recognizin­g its downsides.

“I think of the difference between AI helping doctors diagnose and identify disease versus AI replacing the human social service worker who determines whether someone should receive medical benefits,” writes Wang, cautioning that the latter tendency doesn’t jibe with the economic realities of artificial intelligen­ce, which necessitat­es an expensive corporate model. In other words, it makes far more economic sense to scale and optimize for the latter than the former — and it is this path that concerns them. Viewing technologi­cal innovation as a replacemen­t for human contributi­on rather than an aid to it veers us into dangerous territory.

A world where a computer program can perform defined tasks as well as humans can, where computers can understand the world as well as humans do, presents “an optimized version of human life that is very seductive: rational, errorproof and objective.” But humans are not rational, errorproof and objective — how boring it would be if they were!

“After all,” Wang writes, “life is defined not by uncertaint­y itself but by a commitment to living despite it.”

 ?? Ian Pearce ?? Xiaowei Wang explores innovation and progress in the book “Blockchain Chicken Farm: And Other Stories of Tech in China’s Countrysid­e.”
Ian Pearce Xiaowei Wang explores innovation and progress in the book “Blockchain Chicken Farm: And Other Stories of Tech in China’s Countrysid­e.”
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