20 dishes that offered comfort amidst 2020 chaos
Pandemic, protests and politics upended our “normal” lives in 2020. Last year tested local restaurants, bars and our local hospitality community like never before. As the calendar turned to a new year and I reflected on the requisite recap of my year in food, I realized there were still many bright spots. Mind you, this isn’t my typical collection of the year’s best bites — it feels strange to put together a list of the best when the year offered nothing but the worst. Instead, this list highlights the meals that offered light when there was darkness, comfort when there was chaos.
I’m sharing as a reminder of how vital restaurants are to the fabric of our communities and I hope you’ll join me to rally support for all of our local, independent eateries this year.
Fried chicken, Akaoni (Carmel)
Akaoni is famous for sushi, but last year, the Japanese karaage fried chicken became my must-order each visit — perhaps a subconscious craving for the comfort of childhood chicken nuggets? Make no mistake, chef-owner Shinichi “Shin-san” Yamada is as thoughtful and precise about his fried fowl as he is about Akaoni’s stellar sushi.
Anytime chilaquiles, Aki Fresh Mex (Marina)
Aki Fresh Mex was a welcome addition to our local dining scene last year. Chef-owner Isabel Escorcia’s food is fresh, flavorful and rooted in familia. The anytime chilaquiles — her daughter’s favorite — might best encapsulate why Aki has so many fans. Escorcia’s food honors her family, but more importantly, welcomes us into the family too.
Dry-aged whole duck dinner, Aubergine (Carmel)
Few have the resources to enjoy Aubergine’s Michelin-starred experience, but pivots during the pandemic have made the restaurant’s concept more accessible. Takeout selections change each week, and the spectacular dry-aged whole duck dinner I enjoyed last month showcased why executive chef-director Justin Cogley and his team have amassed many accolades.
Gloria’s sliders, Babaloo Cuban Cafe (Seaside)
When a global pandemic threw a wrench into plans to revive the beloved Babaloo food truck as a new brick-and-mortar cafe, chef-owner Gladys Parada didn’t give up. Years working in a quirky food truck kitchen prepared her to roll with the pandemic’s punches. The cafe’s bright flavors were so uplifting when the world seemed so dreary.
Coq au vin, Bistro Moulin (Monterey)
A wild year saw our appetite for comfort food grow as news of the world around us worsened. One of the most comforting dishes I enjoyed was a savory coq au vin at Bistro Moulin. With each bite of chef-owner Didier Dutertre’s version of the French farmhouse favorite, all thoughts of the chaos around me drifted further away.
Baked empanadas, Cafe Guarani (Pacific Grove)
Cafe Guarani was the sleeper hit of 2020. The new arrival from chefowner Liliana Rodas de Araujo showcases the cui
sine and culture of Paraguay. I’ve lost count of how many baked empanadas I’ve eaten since the bakery cafe’s opening. And while exceptional on their own, do dunk your empanadas in the housemade vibrant and verdant chimichurri.
Bodega bun, Cafe Lumiere (Monterey)
More than two dozen local eateries have permanently shuttered during the pandemic, but the closure of Cafe Lumiere stung me the most. Owner Brandi Lamb built one of the most courageous, versatile and humble spots in town. The bodega bun — thick-cut bacon, gooey cheese and a runny fried egg on a housemade everything brioche bun — offered glorious salvation from the monotony of mornings working from home this year.
Scones, Eddison & Melrose Oats n Scones (Pacific Grove)
The wholesome “Great British Baking Show” offered much needed digital distraction last fall. Dreams of my own British holiday quashed by the pandemic, I found sweet sanctuary with takeaway teas and treats from Eddison & Melrose instead. Several Saturdays started with chef-owner Karen Anne Murray’s sublime scones — so wonderfully light and buttery, I’m sure Paul and Prue would approve.
Chicken torchon, jeninni kitchen + wine bar (Pacific Grove)
Many restaurants wrestled with how best to transition to takeout. At jeninni kitchen + wine bar, owner Thamin Saleh streamlined the menu with selections easily served to-go. The chicken torchon is a standout served hot and ready to slice and serve at home for a feast of fowl for two.
Birria quesadillas, La Bahia Restaurant (Monterey)
Monterey County saw a birria boom last year. My Instagram feed blew up with shots of crisp and crimson tacos loaded with savory, slow-cooked beef and served alongside cups of consomé for dipping.
I’ve enjoyed a lot of birria tacos, but the beefy and cheesy ones at La Bahia Restaurant have proven the most craveable.
Salade rouge, La Bicyclette (Carmel)
When I started to pack on the pandemic pounds, I began exploring our local salad scene. (Though there’s absolutely nothing wrong with putting on extra weight during the pandemic!) Salads are La Bicyclette’s secret hit — come for the pizza, stay for executive chef Obdiel Luna’s standout salads, like this scarlet stunner with roasted beets, red endive and radicchio.
Pan dulce, Lupita’s Bakery (Seaside)
Tasting my way through the expansive menu of Mexican pan dulce at Lupita’s was a delicious distraction from pandemic and politics last summer. At first, I was methodical in my taste tests, but soon realized all the bakers’ selections are superb. Follow my lead and pop by in the afternoon to stock up on a few treats to enjoy the next morning with your cafecito.
Caramel pumpkin pie, Michelle Kneads Dough (popup)
Resourceful out-of-work chefs turned to Instagram to hustle for extra income selling their cuisine cooked from home during the pandemic. Among them is local pastry chef turned Food
Network celebrity Michelle Lee, who leverages a cottage permit to sell delightful desserts in popup flash sales, often donating a portion of proceeds to support social justice causes. Visit instagram.com/michelle. kneads.dough to learn more.
Sardine tartine, ParkerLusseau Pastries (Monterey)
When the pandemic created panic buying for canned foods, sardines were often left behind, amusing foodies who know how tasty these beautifully briny fish are. Case in point? A simple snack hack of tinned sardines and tomato on toast from ParkerLusseau that caught on as a cult favorite lunch special last summer.
Carli Boy sandwich, Plein Air Picnic (mobile)
The pandemic saw many restaurants move outside, where fresh air reduces the risk of virus spread. Plein Air Picnic doubled down on outdoor dining. The catering concept from sisters Lauren and Merritt Palminteri offers custom private picnic packages. The Carli Boy sandwich with pickled beets and hardboiled egg on fluffy focaccia was a surprise hit.
Samosa chaat, Taste of India (Pacific Grove)
Word-of-mouth was just catching on for Taste of India when the pandemic hit. Adding insult to injury, coronavirus made the popular buffet a no-no. I’m relieved that didn’t dampen the excitement of locals. And rightly so, with a selection of comforting curries and convenient online ordering. My favorite? Samosa chaat with smashed samosas, chickpeas, chutneys, cilantro and crispy sev noodles on top.
Mission: Pig sandwich, Toasted Artisan Grilled Cheese (mobile)
I don’t know about you, but I craved childhood favorites last year. Thankfully, nostalgia was on the menu at Toasted, the farmers market booth from Brandon, Brett and Erica Domingos and extended family that specializes in grilled cheese sandwiches. The Mission: Pig with bacon and fig jam sees the staple I enjoyed as a kid every weekend at Grandma’s all grown up now.
Rice crepe, Tommy’s Wok (Carmel)
I missed Saturdays spent with friends plucking dumplings and buns from a massive spread of dim sum. I was relieved that charm still translated with my takeout from Tommy’s Wok. My heart breaks hearing how Chinese communities across the country have suffered during the pandemic, so I’m pledging renewed support for local Chinese restaurants this year.