Santa Fe New Mexican

Scientists prove splash of water to whiskey optimizes flavor

- By Jenna Gallegos

Two physical chemists walk into a bar. They order whiskeys, and a jolly Scotsman one stool over insists they add a splash of water to optimize the flavor of the spirits. Inspired by the smooth, smoky flavor, they vow to investigat­e a question whiskey enthusiast­s answered decades ago: Does adding water to whiskey really make it taste better?

That’s the almost true story behind a paper published this week in the journal Scientific Reports. Bjorn Karlsson and Ran Friedman of the Linnaeus University Center for Biomateria­ls Chemistry are not whiskey drinkers, but Friedman did visit Scotland, and he raised an eyebrow at the locals’ dedication to watering down even the fanciest Scotch.

Like a good scientist, he wanted to test the assumption, so he teamed up with Karlsson and used computer simulation­s to model the molecular compositio­n of whiskey. There are two competing theories for why adding water to whiskey might improve the flavor, Karlsson said. The first suggests that adding water traps compounds that are unpleasant.

Whiskey contains fatty acid esters that have two very different ends. The head is electrosta­tically attracted to water and the tail is not. Fatty acid esters in water can form compounds called micelles. In micelles, all the tails come together in the middle while the heads form a sphere on the outside, like a bouquet of lollipops with their sticks all tied together on the inside. Adding water to whiskey could, theoretica­lly, cause more micelles to form, trapping compounds that don’t taste or smell good.

A competing theory suggests that adding water releases molecules that improve the flavor. Water and ethanol don’t make for a perfectly uniform mixture. In the researcher­s’ simulation­s, they found that the concentrat­ion of ethanol had a large effect on guaiacol. At concentrat­ions above 59 percent ethanol (the alcohol content to which whiskey is distilled) the guaiacol was mixed throughout. Whiskey is diluted before bottling to about 40 percent ethanol. In the simulation, at 40 percent, ethanol accumulate­d near the surface, bringing the guaiacol with it. At about 27 percent the ethanol began to aerosolize, presumably freeing the guaiacol even further.

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