Explore annual wine fiesta with elegance of an expert
Crisp mornings and the scent of roasting green chile signal the eve of autumn in New Mexico. Flavors of lemon zest, honeysuckle and tropical fruit might not be on the tip of your tongue come September, but if you’re sipping a glass of Gruet Blanc de Blancs at this year’s Santa Fe Wine & Chile Fiesta, you are in for a feast for the senses.
Santa Fe Wine & Chile is an annual fiveday event featuring the culinary artistry of 75 of Santa Fe’s best restaurants coupled with the sophistication of 100 national wineries. At a series of events around town, guests delight in samples of the finest food and wine.
Whether you are partaking in some of the delicious wine tastings or simply want to learn more about what vintage makes your mouth water, Greg O’Byrne, executive director of the fiesta, and I revisit tips to simplify the often dramatic and romantic world of wine and the necessary accompanying etiquette to help you on your way to becoming an oenophile extraordinaire.
It’s terribly intimidating to spend an evening among wine connoisseurs who are defending New World to Old World wines, holding their glasses by the base as they taste notes of toasted vanilla with a long aftertaste of apples and banana. And you thought wine was made from grapes! The science and experience of wine is so complex, it will leave your head spinning more than a hangover.
Learning what shape glass goes with what wine is confusing, but the reward will be obvious when you taste it. The shape of a wine glass is instrumental in appreciating the flavor and aroma — or bouquet. To simplify, reds are best in a large bowl shape, whites in a narrower tulip-like shape and sparkling wines in a tall flute, “although these days many wine lovers are enjoying Champagne in a Burgundy bowl,” O’Byrne said.
Personally, I’m not particular, as I appreciate bubbly from paper cup to coupe.
Whether dining in or out, the attentive host surveys one’s guests. How many prefer red or white? Perhaps you will need a bottle of both. Having options is always a gracious position to be in, and the same goes for your non-drinking guests. In a restaurant where the food and wine choices are plentiful, it is acceptable for a guest to order his or her own glass.
When selecting the wine in a restaurant, engage your server or, if available, the sommelier — a trained wine professional. You may ask questions about wine pairings with your courses or the specific characteristics you are looking for. If sticking with a budget, high or low, point one out on the wine list indicating your price range. A competent server should be able to offer you a few choices that complement your palate and wallet.
After you’ve ordered a bottle, the server will present it to you for a visual inspection. Read the label to confirm it is indeed what you ordered. The server will then open the wine and place the cork on the table. A small quantity of wine is poured into your glass for you to smell and then taste.
Hold the glass by the stem or base and, while it is on the table, begin a tight swirl. This motion releases and accentuates the aroma of the wine. With practice, you’ll get used to the movement, and soon you’ll be swirling your coffee cup in the car. After a few rotations, raise the glass to your nose and smell it. This is not a scented candle; stick your nose right into the glass. You may pick up on “notes” of peaches and pears and any number of common foods, spices or elements. At the start, it may all just seem like fruit salad to you, but over time, you will develop an expert sense of smell.
The point of the swirl and sniff is to confirm that the bottle is not corked. If the first scent you detect is that of a wet basement, this may be the case. Ask your server if they agree. A wine is “corked” if the chemical used to sanitize the cork has tainted the wine.
Tasting the wine allows you to experience the texture and flavor. Take a sip. Does it taste like it smells? Is the temperature right? It is perfectly acceptable to ask your server to put your wine on ice, to let it breathe longer or to decant it. These are choices you will graduate to over time.
If you’ve had an in-depth dialogue with your server, and the wine is not defective, this should be a suitable wine selection for you, and it is not in good taste to refuse it. After your approval, the server will pour the glasses of your guests and return to fill your glass last.
When it comes to enjoying and managing your wine, less is more. Less wine in the glass allows it to breathe and ensures there is enough to be served to the entire table. Anticipate the next course and the accompanying wine. For every glass of wine, drink a glass of water. Rather than getting sauced, think of the wine as the sauce to your dinner. Enjoy a sip with a bite of food, which can act as a governor. Can’t finish that $100 pinot noir but you hate to waste it? Don’t force yourself to finish it. The law permits “doggy bags” for wine from New Mexico restaurants.
Savor O’Byrne’s last drop of wisdom: “Don’t forget the best rule of all: It’s not what you drink, but who you drink it with that counts.”
So raise a glass, look into the eye of each of your guests and toast to your newfound wisdom and years of fruitful (and fruity) sipping.
“Cheers! Salute! Cin cin!” Bizia Greene owns the Etiquette School of Santa Fe. Share your comments and conundrums at hello@ etiquettesantafe.com or 505-988-2070.