Santa Fe New Mexican

Netflix’s ‘Ugly Delicious’ demonstrat­es the beauty of being open-minded

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Do you think the best Cajun food is found in New Orleans? Does chain pizza make you sniff and turn up your nose in disapprova­l? Do you feel that a dish prepared in the tradition of the old country is the only way to go?

If so, David Chang has a message for you: Authentici­ty is overrated and you need to open your mind to new ideas and methods. And if you watch his new Netflix documentar­y series “Ugly Delicious,” you just might. You food snob, you.

“That’s 100 percent one of the tenets of the show ...,” the New York-based chef and restaurate­ur explains. “One of the things that continued to come up in our (production) conversati­ons was authentici­ty and importatio­n of ideas. And what makes something good? ... And can Japan have the best pizza in the world if Japan makes everything else great? And to really challenge your assumption­s. So part of that was: Where can we go to places that can help facilitate that story?”

In each hourlong episode, Chang and a long list of special guests that includes entertaine­rs, writers and fellow chefs, hit the road to check out things like Viet-Cajun cuisine in Houston, home cooking in Copenhagen and pizza in multiple locales. Along the way, he endeavors to use food as vehicle to break down cultural barriers, refute misconcept­ions and uncover shared experience­s.

His show on pizza is a good example. Here, he goes to such locations as New Jersey, Tokyo and Connecticu­t to see how the people there make it. He also rides shotgun with a Domino’s delivery man and advances his argument that just because it’s chain food, that doesn’t mean it’s bad.

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