TAKING STEPS OF FAITH
Thousands walk miles for annual pilgrimage to Chimayó, many bearing crosses
The cold settled into jeans and seeped through socks in the early hours of Good Friday as hundreds of feet tread along the shoulder of U.S. 84/285. Each step was to its own rhythm as each individual held a different prayer or memory of lost loved ones in their heart. Yet a similar passion flowed through the figures dotting the highway. Each step was spurred by faith.
“I am walking to Chimayó in thanks for all the blessings that God has given me and to pray for the world because there is so much evil, so much lack of unity,” Elizabeth Lara said in Spanish. “I am asking for unity in the world and health for some of my friends that are sick and for my family.”
Every year during the week before Easter Sunday, pilgrims start making walks to El Santuario de Chimayó, renowned for its supposed healing effects from the earth by the humble
shrine. Good Friday is the most popular time for walkers to trek distances that could be only a couple of miles to more than 30. By the end of Holy Week, an estimated 30,000 people will have made the pilgrimage.
Lara started her walk from Santa Fe at 3 a.m. Friday. By the time the sun was peaking above the mountains, she was near Pojoaque. She feels the pilgrimage enables people to remember the power of God as they take a step back from their struggles.
Toward Nambé, traffic slowed to a crawl as cars, people and horses crowded the two-lane road. Young and old, fast and slow, some burdened with crosses digging into shoulders or children clinging to backs, people walked.
“It’s such a positive thing in such a negative time,” said Gabriella Tickner. “It calms me spiritually.”
Tickner, 43, has made the walk to Chimayó almost every spring of her life. As she has aged, she said, its meaning has deepened for her.
“It’s wonderful to see all these people who feel the same way,” she said. “It’s uplifting.”
People who otherwise would never have met chat with other pilgrims as they pass or as they wait in lines for portable bathrooms stationed along the route. While sweat dripped and strides became trudges, pilgrims found support in one another and charity along the path.
At various intervals lining N.M. 503, walkers received comforts such as free water, snacks and shade offered by people with campers or tables set up in front of parked cars.
At the bottom of a hill, Berta Suarez offered a toothy grin under her brown sun hat as she welcomed walkers with a roll of bread.
Five years ago, Suarez’s granddaughter asked her to bake bread so she could hand it out to those making the pilgrimage. Before her granddaughter could fulfill her plan, she and her sister were killed in a car accident. For the past three years, Suarez has kept her granddaughters’ memory by baking 600 rolls during the three days before Good Friday so she could pass out love in the shape of dough.
“They are in my heart,” Suarez said in Spanish.
On the last stretch of their walk, some ponder in silence, some sing hymns in weary voices. However, most talk and laugh in idle chatter.
By the time the pilgrims make it to the santuario, a twisting line greets them well before the archway marking the last 20 feet to the entrance of the adobe building erected more than a century ago. The area buzzed and smiles were everywhere. While some people had walked until their feet were numb, the feeling of camaraderie and celebration outweighed the exhaustion pricking the corners of their eyes.
“It’s a time to let your thoughts and everything go away,” said Cheryl Archuletta as she waited to enter the chapel.
For 25 years, Archuletta has not only walked to the santuario on Good Friday but has brought a special friend. Strapped to her front in a baby carrier was a toy stuffed monkey. Bought by her husband as a replacement for one she had as a child, it has been on every walk with her. With the turmoil in the world, she said, it has meant a lot to see religious faith among not only the older generation but in young people as well.
“The world has been really awful,” Archuletta said. “I pray for everyone and hope for better in the world.”
Brandon Antonio, 9, was on his second walk with his grandfather. He said he made the pilgrimage for his uncle who is going through hard times. He said it is important to take time to reflect on others.
“It’s important for me to help someone,” he said.
The faith displayed in replicating Jesus’ walk bearing his cross continues to inspire people to join the tradition.
“Their dedication and commitment to their religion is amazing,” said Eve Silva.
Silva traveled to Santa Fe from Colorado with her niece and was not planning to join the pilgrimage. When they saw people walking Thursday evening, they decided to make the walk for themselves and now plan to do it every year.
“I think it’s important,” Silva said, “so you can get a different perspective on your life.”