Santa Fe New Mexican

On this 35-hour train trip, THE JOURNEY IS THE VACATION

- Story and photos by Nicole Evatt

It was late Friday night, and we were scouring the usual sites touting the top things to do in Los Angeles. Uninspired by our options and facing a long weekend without obligation­s, my husband and I made a last-minute booking on Amtrak’s Coast Starlight. Ten hours later, we’re settling in for a 35-hour train trip spanning 1,377 miles up California’s picture-perfect coastline and Oregon’s rugged terrain. Seattle may have been the end destinatio­n, but this weekend was all about the journey.

10 A.M. UNION STATION, LOS ANGELES

At the station we are greeted by a friendly car attendant who shows us to our private room. Amtrak’s top-tier accommodat­ion sleeps up to three and includes a small work or lounge space, your own bathroom, shower and five meals. “This is gonna be fun!” our attendant beams as the train roars to life.

12:40 P.M. SANTA BARBARA

As the scenery changes from urban and industrial to the golden beaches of Ventura, we stumble toward the dining car for lunch. Lunch options include tasty steamed mussels, spicy chilaquile­s and a delightful chocolate raspberry tart. Making meal reservatio­ns and obsessing about what to order becomes a full-time job as we roll into hour three.

3:30 P.M. SAN LUIS OBISPO

With forced relaxation in full effect, it’s time to kick off happy hour as we pass by the central coast’s sprawling vineyards.

10 P.M. EMERYVILLE

Amtrak’s sleeper cars offer turndown service, and with little else to do, we tuck in for the night. Not exactly luxury, but a few notches up from camping, sleeping in the train’s tight quarters was adequate with occasional interrupti­ons from noisy neighbors, announceme­nts or bumpy terrain.

8 A.M. KLAMATH FALLS, ORE.

I wake in Oregon to high desert wilderness and snow-dusted pine forests. We opt for the buffet breakfast and spend the morning taking in the panorama from the observatio­n car, which offers comfy seating. Cell service is nonexisten­t for most of day two, which meant board games, deep conversati­ons and actual human connection sans social media.

9 P.M. KING STREET STATION, SEATTLE

There were a handful of stretch breaks, including quick stops in Eugene and Portland, but I’m ready to get off when we reach the grand, granite-clad King Street Station. With only a few hours left in our spontaneou­s weekend adventure, we set out to explore Seattle’s nightlife. Finally, an early flight brings us back to reality — wobbly-legged and wonderfull­y rejuvenate­d from the journey.

 ??  ?? ABOVE: The Northern California coastline is seen in December from the window of Amtrak’s Coast Starlight as the train journeys to Seattle from Los Angeles. Skip the hassles of traffic and airport security and hop on a coastal trek offering an...
ABOVE: The Northern California coastline is seen in December from the window of Amtrak’s Coast Starlight as the train journeys to Seattle from Los Angeles. Skip the hassles of traffic and airport security and hop on a coastal trek offering an...
 ??  ?? LEFT: Passengers lounge in the observatio­n car of Amtrak’s Coast Starlight during the 35-hour route from Los Angeles to Seattle.
LEFT: Passengers lounge in the observatio­n car of Amtrak’s Coast Starlight during the 35-hour route from Los Angeles to Seattle.
 ??  ?? Seattle’s historic King Street station, where Amtrak’s Coast Starlight ends its journey from Los Angeles.
Seattle’s historic King Street station, where Amtrak’s Coast Starlight ends its journey from Los Angeles.

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