Santa Fe New Mexican

Native women revive tattoo tradition with modern twist

Ancestral memories, modern methods are used to create sacred tattoos for women coming of age

- By Ash Adams

New York Times

Grete Chythlook dreamed of the tattoo before she had ever seen one in person: a few fine lines drawn from the bottom lip down to the tip of the chin. “I didn’t know anybody who had a chin tattoo,” she said, “whether Inuit, Gwich’in or any other group.” So when a friend asked her to accompany her to a tattooing session, and the design matched her vision, she sensed that something special was happening.

“Being in the room with her while she was getting these marks was so powerful, I couldn’t process it,” Chythlook said. “I came home and I told my husband, ‘This is a part of me. This is real. This is something I can’t deny anymore.’ ”

These line tattoos speak to a practice that dates back at least 10,000 years and is now being revitalize­d by Alaska Native women who want to reconnect with the traditions of their ancestors, some using modern methods.

“This is something our people had done for thousands of years, and then all of a sudden, it’s just gone,” said Chythlook, who is Gwich’in. In light of that history, she considers her dreams of the tattoos “an ancestral memory, something telling me that this is where I was meant to be.”

These tattoos were traditiona­lly inscribed on women’s skin by women’s hands to commemorat­e various achievemen­ts and points in a woman’s life, such as one’s first menstrual period, the mastery of a new skill and childbirth.

But as Western colonizati­on swept Alaska in the 19th and 20th centuries, including the establishm­ent of boarding schools where indigenous languages were forbidden, many Alaska Natives were prohibited from practicing the rituals that had bound them to one another. Tattooing was one of those traditions.

In the past decade, women in Alaska and other areas of the circumpola­r north have been working to revitalize the tattooing tradition. For them it is a response to the long-ago efforts to wipe out cultural practices and entire population­s of people, and a celebratio­n of cultural resilience.

Historical­ly, the tattoos were applied using bone, sinew and soot or gunpowder. These days the tattoos are applied with bamboo, thread and black ink on a massage table, sometimes with the soft hum of streaming music in the background. Some women cite academic and profession­al accomplish­ments, like graduating from college, as occasion for getting their tattoos, while others say that making their Alaska Native heritage visible — so as not to “pass” as white or nonnative — motivated their decision.

“I was never ashamed of who I was or where I was from,” said Chythlook, who had her chin tattooed by Sarah WhalenLunn, an artist.

“And that was a big one for me — choosing not to pass — and making sure that when I walk into a room not only do people know who I am, but they know how I think, what I feel, because this says more than just, ‘Oh, she’s Native.’ ”

Holly Nordlum has been a voice at the forefront of the movement to revive this practice. Inspired by her great-grandmothe­r, the last woman in her family to have the traditiona­l tattoos, she applied for a Polar Lab grant through the Anchorage Museum in 2015, and with the help of the Smithsonia­n Arctic Studies Center developed a program designed to educate women and the public about the art of traditiona­l Inuit tattooing.

Nordlum uses a traditiona­l hand-poke method in her tattooing sessions, which take place in homes all around Alaska. One of the things she likes best about her work is its visibility. As someone who was often teased by peers for her lighter complexion, Nordlum sees her tattoos as a counter to the whitewashi­ng of Native life. “We all come from white dads,” she said. “We are all a product of that.”

The tattoos, she said, are a rearticula­tion of Native heritage, and in borrowing stylistic elements from various Inuit cultures, the practice of tattooing has created a more visible indigenous sisterhood. In fact, for many of these women, the markings are a reminder to speak their Native languages and claim other aspects of their ancestry with pride. They, like Nordlum, believe that the connection between their markings and Alaska Native heritage must be made explicit to safeguard their culture against appropriat­ion.

“These tattoos were a marker in a woman’s life, a way to celebrate a woman’s life, and when you dilute it and just anyone can get a traditiona­l tattoo, those things aren’t celebrated and they aren’t important,” Nordlum said, “and I think that’s really detrimenta­l to healing. So, when we do the tattoos, we talk a lot about the people’s stories, their stories and their colonizati­on — even though they wouldn’t call it that, it’s just their lives and their hardships — but we’re all a product of colonizati­on.

“We can cite those things and teach them so that they don’t feel like it was them or their family’s fault,” she added. “And that can be very healing and very emotional.”

As face tattoos have captured the imaginatio­n of body art enthusiast­s in recent years, these Alaska Native women hope that these traditiona­l styles can remain their own.

“I really believe that there is so little that is sacred to us, that we should hold this and hold it tight, and we should not give it away,” Nordlum said. “And we should fight to keep it our own.”

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 ?? PHOTOS BY ASH ADAMS/NEW YORK TIMES ?? Holly Nordlum gives Jerrilyn Wellert, 18, a chin tattoo, which traditiona­lly represents coming of age, in Fairbanks, Ala., in March. In Alaska and other areas of the polar north, women have been working in the last decade to revitalize a tattooing tradition utilizing modern methods.
PHOTOS BY ASH ADAMS/NEW YORK TIMES Holly Nordlum gives Jerrilyn Wellert, 18, a chin tattoo, which traditiona­lly represents coming of age, in Fairbanks, Ala., in March. In Alaska and other areas of the polar north, women have been working in the last decade to revitalize a tattooing tradition utilizing modern methods.
 ??  ?? Nordlum developed a program designed to educate women and the public about the art of traditiona­l Inuit tattooing.
Nordlum developed a program designed to educate women and the public about the art of traditiona­l Inuit tattooing.

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