Santa Fe New Mexican

The best matzo? It’s homemade

- By Melissa Clark

Of all the delights of the Seder table — the tender brisket, the golden chicken soup flecked with dill, the wine-drenched charoset rich with apples — commercial, kosher-for-Passover matzo falls pretty low on the list.

Made from only flour and water, the result is hard and bland — perfect as a base for matzo brei or a Hillel sandwich but not so delicious for snacking on its own.

Homemade matzo is something else entirely. Delicate and airy, and often spiked with a little salt and olive oil, it has potato chip appeal, but it’s much faster and easier to make.

The first time I whipped up a batch, I was surprised at how quick the process was. But it makes sense: After all, according to Jewish tradition, the Israelites mixed and baked their matzo in under 18 minutes before their exodus into the desert. How complicate­d could the recipe be?

It’s important to note that as tasty as it is, this recipe isn’t kosher for Passover because Jewish law forbids any ingredient­s other than flour and water to be used. However, even if you left out the salt and oil, it still wouldn’t necessaril­y meet all the exacting kosher criteria.

“It’s nearly impossible to create Passover matzo at home that you can use for the Seder,” said Rabbi Motti Seligson of Chabad, “but making it can be educationa­l and fun, especially for children.”

Still, as the holiday approaches, making your own can be a delicious and satisfying pursuit that’s also inherently hopeful.

“Matzo is a symbol of deliveranc­e,” Seligson said. And that’s something we can all celebrate right about now.

EASY MATZO

Makes 4 matzo crackers; total time: 30 minutes

2 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for rolling

¼ cup whole-wheat flour

¾ teaspoon kosher salt

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

Flaky sea salt (optional)

Preparatio­n: With the racks positioned the top third and middle, heat oven to 500 degrees.

In a large bowl, use a wooden spoon to stir together all-purpose flour, whole-wheat flour and kosher salt. Add in ½ cup water and the ¼ cup oil, and stir until a pliable dough forms, adding more water if the dough seems dry.

Lightly flour a work surface, and knead dough briefly until it becomes smooth. Cut dough into 4 even pieces. Reflour your work surface, if necessary, and use a rolling pin to roll out 2 pieces as thinly as you can, about 6 to 8 inches in diameter. (They should be almost translucen­t.) Aim for rounds, but don’t worry if they are oblong.

Transfer each matzo to a separate baking sheet, and prick each one all over with a fork. Sprinkle with flaky sea salt, if you like. Bake until golden all over and lightly browned in spots, about 7 to 12 minutes. (Timing will depend on how thinly you rolled the dough.) Transfer matzos to a wire rack and let cool.

While first batch is baking, roll out remaining dough. If you have enough baking sheets, transfer the rolled dough onto another two sheets. If not, use the warm sheet trays you used in the first batch, being careful while transferri­ng and pricking the dough with a fork. Bake and cool.

 ?? JULIA GARTLAND/NEW YORK TIMES ?? This homemade matzo may not be kosher for Passover, but it’s delicate, airy and quick to make.
JULIA GARTLAND/NEW YORK TIMES This homemade matzo may not be kosher for Passover, but it’s delicate, airy and quick to make.

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