SWEET HEAT
Peaches and chile oil combine to give this cabbage salad flavor
Every year when the last weeks of summer burst with an abundance of fruits and vegetables, I feel a bit like a squirrel. What can I save for the winter? What should I make now? Each year I choose a handful of things to preserve and freeze, but always feel like I’m being forced to pick a favorite child.
This week the peaches on our tree started to ripen. Because of the late freeze, I wasn’t sure if they would make it at all. They are small but taste amazing. In celebration of stone fruits everywhere that have survived the year, persevered and still found a way to reign with splendor as the queen of summer fruit, I wanted to share this salad. I use peaches but you can use any stone fruit: apricots, nectarines, plums, even cherries.
I have swapped out ingredients for a Southwestern flavor, but the chile oil is inspired by the method used in making Chinese Sichuan chile oil. The technique is straightforward and results in loads of mouthwatering flavor. You start by infusing a neutral oil with spices, then strain this oil onto the chile flakes. The recipe below produces much more than you will need for the salad recipe, but having extra in the fridge on hand for noodles, rice, veggies, eggs, bread, etc. will not disappoint. If you are able to make the chile oil in advance, this salad will take 10 minutes to throw together. The salad is amazing paired with grilled meats and/or vegetables. But honestly, this salad is so full of crunch and flavor, you might not want anything else on your plate.
CABBAGE AND PEACH SALAD
Makes: 4-6 servings; total time: 1 hour
For the chile oil:
12 dried red New Mexico chiles, stems removed
1 cinnamon stick
1 tablespoon coriander seeds 1 teaspoon whole black peppercorns ½ cup grapeseed oil
4 garlic cloves, crushed
1 large shallot, halved
1 tablespoon dried oregano 1 teaspoon dried culinary lavender (or around 4 fresh sprigs) 2 teaspoon kosher salt
For the salad:
3 fire-roasted poblano peppers, seeded and sliced
6 cups sliced cabbage
3 ripe peaches, sliced
2 lemons, juiced spoon of chile oil, to taste salt and pepper fresh lavender flowers, for garnish (optional)
Make the chile oil: In a dry pot, add the chiles, cinnamon stick, coriander seeds and black peppercorns. Toast them for a couple minutes, stirring occasionally until fragrant but being careful not to burn. With tongs, remove the chiles and set them aside. Add oil, garlic, shallot, oregano, lavender and salt to the pot of spices and let cook on very low heat (the lowest possible) for around 30 minutes to infuse the flavor of the spices into the oil. While the oil is infusing, prepare the chiles. Once they are cool, open the chiles and remove anywhere from all to none of the seeds. For a mild oil, remove all of the seeds. For a spicy oil, leave all of the seeds. Put chiles into a very dry blender or food processor and pulse until you have small chile flakes. Pour these dried chile flakes into a heatproof glass jar, and when the oil is finished infusing, drain the oil through a fine mesh strainer into the jar with the red pepper flakes. Let cool and store in the fridge. You will have plenty of extra oil you can use on other things.
Make the salad: In a large salad bowl, add the poblano peppers, cabbage, peaches, fresh lemon juice and chile oil, and salt and pepper to taste. Gently toss to combine. Transfer to a large platter or individual bowls and enjoy!
Marianne Sundquist is a chef, food business consultant and shares recipes for home cooks on Instagram @chefmariannesundquist. She owns the catering business Daya, which has shifted for the time being into an online general store, sourcing and delivering pantry staples to area residents. Visit dayasantafe.square.site and email her at marianne@dayasantafe.com.