Santa Fe New Mexican

Ancient snacks are fresh clues to life in Pompeii

- By Elisabetta Povoledo

ROME — Wine turned white with crushed fava beans. A soupy concoction of snails, sheep and fish.

If these do not sound particular­ly appetizing today, they appear to have been all the rage in ancient Pompeii, as evidenced by ancient leftovers found during excavation­s this month at the archaeolog­ical site of the former Roman city. They were found in a thermopoli­um — or snack bar — serving street food popular in A.D. 79. Two years after it was first unearthed, archaeolog­ists began to excavate the interior of the shop in October. This month, they found food and drink residue that is expected to provide fresh clues about the ancient population’s culinary tastes.

The work offers “another insight into daily life at Pompeii” and represents the “first time an area of this type has been excavated in its entirety” and analyzed with modern technology, Massimo Osanna, the departing director of the Archaeolog­ical Park of Pompeii, said Saturday.

Human life in Pompeii came to an abrupt halt nearly 2,000 years ago, when Mount Vesuvius spilled tons of lapilli, ash and rock onto the ancient Roman city, preserving it in time. Over the centuries, Pompeii became a powerful symbol of the transience of life.

Since excavation­s began in 1748, fragments of that ancient civilizati­on have continued to emerge. About 80 thermopoli­i have been found at Pompeii, where residents could choose their edibles from containers set into street-front counters.

The one excavated this month included a large dolium, or earthenwar­e vessel, that had contained wine.

The contents of two other jars remain to be analyzed, but Chiara Corbino, the archaeozoo­logist involved in the dig, said it appeared that they contained two kinds of dishes: a pork and fish combinatio­n found “in other contexts at Pompeii,” and a concoction involving snails, fish and sheep, perhaps a soup or stew.

The documentar­y division of the national broadcaste­r Rai has followed the excavation­s at Pompeii over the past three years for a documentar­y that will be shown nationally Sunday and will be available to internatio­nal audiences online.

 ?? SUSAN WRIGHT/NEW YORK TIMES FILE PHOTO ?? Mount Vesuvius looms over Pompeii, Italy, in 2019. Archaeolog­ists found ancient food and drink residue that may provide details about the ancient population’s culinary tastes.
SUSAN WRIGHT/NEW YORK TIMES FILE PHOTO Mount Vesuvius looms over Pompeii, Italy, in 2019. Archaeolog­ists found ancient food and drink residue that may provide details about the ancient population’s culinary tastes.

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