Santa Fe New Mexican

A stew that captures the essence of the sea

- By Yewande Komolafe

Moqueca hails from the state of Bahia in northeaste­rn Brazil, the heart of Afro-Brazilian culture and its rich culinary heritage. Built on the freshest seafood you can find,

moqueca delivers a creamy, spicy richness with just a few central ingredient­s.

The dish begins with a base of sautéed garlic, onion, tomatoes and sweet peppers. A fresh chile adds heat that will linger gently, and coconut milk gives the stew body. Red palm oil (azeite de dendê in Portuguese) acts as the glue that holds this dish together. There is no substitute for its characteri­stic floral, smoke-like flavor and vibrant orange sheen. Serve moqueca hot, alongside steamed white rice.

MOQUECA

Total time: 40 minutes; makes: 4 to 6 servings

6 head-on prawns or large head-on shrimp (about 12 ounces)

12 ounces cod fillet, cut into 1-inch pieces

Kosher salt

2 limes

3 tablespoon­s dendê oil (see note)

4 garlic cloves, minced

1 small yellow onion, chopped (1 cup)

8 ounces sweet baby bell peppers or

2 bell peppers, any color, sliced into

¼-inch strips (2 cups)

1 pound fresh tomatoes, cut in 1-inchwide wedges (2 ½ cups)

1 whole hot chile, such as red Scotch bonnet or bird’s-eye, pierced all over with the tip of a knife

1 (13.5-ounce) can full-fat coconut milk

¼ cup chopped fresh cilantro Steamed rice, for serving

Preparatio­n: Use a pair of kitchen scissors to cut along the length of each prawn deep enough to expose and remove the vein. Place the fish chunks in a large bowl and season with 1 teaspoon salt. Squeeze in the juice of 1 lime and toss to coat. Set the prawns and fish aside while preparing the sauce.

In a large, shallow Dutch oven or large, deep skillet, melt 2 tablespoon­s dendê oil over medium heat. Add the garlic and cook, stirring, until softened and fragrant, 1 minute. Add the onion, stir and cook, stirring until translucen­t, about 2 minutes.

Increase the heat to high, add the peppers, tomatoes and chile. Season with salt. Cook, stirring frequently, until the peppers are softened and any liquid from the tomatoes is beginning to evaporate, 4 minutes.

Pour in the coconut milk, stir and reduce the heat to medium. Simmer, stirring occasional­ly, until the liquid thickens and reduces to a creamy sauce, about 10 minutes. Taste, adjust the salt, if necessary, and stir in 2 tablespoon­s chopped cilantro.

Carefully place the prawns in the sauce in a single layer and cook for 2 minutes. Turn the prawns to cook the other sides and add the cod. (Discard any juices in the bowl.) The fish will be partly submerged. Cook until the fish is tender and just cooked through, 2 to 3 minutes.

Remove from heat, drizzle in the remaining 1 tablespoon dendê oil and sprinkle with the remaining 2 tablespoon­s chopped cilantro. Slice the remaining lime into wedges. Serve immediatel­y, with steamed rice and lime wedges for squeezing.

Tip: Dendê oil, also known as red palm oil, is available online or at West African or Caribbean markets.

 ?? ARMANDO RAFAEL/FOR THE NEW YORK TIMES ??
ARMANDO RAFAEL/FOR THE NEW YORK TIMES

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