Santa Fe New Mexican

Thinking outside the pot

Loren Aragon

- By Rosemary Diaz (Santa Clara Pueblo)

Some artists seem to possess a natural gift for carrying their designs in unexplored directions. They find their most solid footing in the continuati­on of the creative journey — the neverendin­g pursuit of new ways to express an artistic vision. Loren Aragon is one of these artists — resting on his laurels is not an option.

Aragon is founder and owner of ACONAV, whose name, a combinatio­n of “Acoma” and “Navajo,” is an homage to his and his wife’s tribal background­s. He is also principal designer for the fashion label, through which he rewrites the Native fashion narrative. His work has cultivated a new appreciati­on for Native design — couture in particular — among clients the world over, especially those whose fashion philosophi­es align with the ACONAV brand. In a 2018 Navajo-Hopi

Observer article, Aragon described his work as “cultural designs embodied in timeless elegance while representi­ng an identifiab­le Native American style.”

Surprising­ly, Aragon didn’t initially intend to follow the artist’s path. He graduated from Arizona State University in 2014 with a bachelor’s degree in mechanical engineerin­g. That explains his penchant for taming notoriousl­y temperamen­tal fabrics, such as silk and leather. These are among the most disagreeab­le materials where pleating, gathering and applying beads or other ornamentat­ion is the task at hand. And

everything produced under the ACONAV label is made by hand.

The level of perfection required to engineer machines has translated seamlessly into Aragon’s carefully curated collection­s. There are no rough edges, no wayward threads, no uneven stitches to distract the eye or to compromise the beauty and elegance of any given piece. Collection­s with names like Empowermen­t are presented in storms of color and downpours of texture. Creations might resemble a ray of the day’s last sunlight striking the surface of an Acoma vase (a red belt over a black-and-white dress) or rain clouds in late summer swirling into and out of each other above the desert (gowns in purples, grays and ethereal blues made of fabrics so light that they catch the slightest of breezes).

Aragon’s atelier celebrates the omnipresen­t power of the feminine, with many pieces based on the design of the classic manta — worn by countless generation­s of Pueblo matriarchs — and embellishe­d with cultural iconograph­y such as parrots, lightning, water and rainbows, or geometric patterns borrowed from the fine-line decorative technique used in both historic and contempora­ry Acoma pottery. Other pieces drape around the body in shapes reminiscen­t of the flowing garments worn by Greek goddesses and other heroines of the ancient world. The abundance of fabric used in each ACONAV couture production adds an element of luxury — the feel of silk charmeuse, taffeta, organza or cotton sateen against and about the body is no longer reserved for characters in some fictional epic but is an absolute necessity for the label’s enthusiast­s. “Native artists are no longer imprisoned by frugality or want,” says fellow couturier

 ?? KITTY LEAKEN ?? Loren Aragon Facing page: ACONAV Pe'Eh'Cha — Evening Rain III, halter dress with lilac charmeuse silk bodice and skirt, Habotai silk lining and gray chiffon overlay, Spring/Summer 2020 collection. Image courtesy of the artist
KITTY LEAKEN Loren Aragon Facing page: ACONAV Pe'Eh'Cha — Evening Rain III, halter dress with lilac charmeuse silk bodice and skirt, Habotai silk lining and gray chiffon overlay, Spring/Summer 2020 collection. Image courtesy of the artist
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