More savory stops on the food truck circuit
SIDE DISH
What’s cooking in and around Santa Fe
You’ll find food trucks tucked in every corner of Santa Fe, from parking lots on Cerrillos Road to offbeat side streets, clustered into groups, set up next to other thriving bars or shops, or just a delicious destination unto themselves.
A few weeks ago, I decided to take stock of some of the food trucks I’d never visited before. That includes a few with prominent locations and thriving local fan bases, and a few more with lower profiles but no-less-loyal customers.
A reader emailed with a recommendation to try the breakfast burrito at Pepe’s Tacos y Mas, a golden yellow truck on Agua Fría Street between Piccolino and the eye-catching sculpture garden at Prescott Gallery. I’d seen the truck last summer when the popular Peach Valley Produce had its stand in the same lot (word is it’s returning later this month on St. Michael’s Drive).
Now, though, Pepe’s has the space to itself, and it takes advantage with some colorful parking signage and a huge overhang offering shade and a little seating for waiting customers. That’s good news because Pepe’s is popular: I counted about a dozen folks, including a family of four, placing orders around noon on a recent Saturday.
Sadly, I arrived too late for breakfast, but the hearty asada burrito ($9) I chose instead, absolutely stuffed with meat as well as lettuce and tomato, came out promptly, served with a cup of salsa. In addition to tacos and burritos (including barbacoa, lengua, buche, tripas and chicharron), the truck sells fish and shrimp dishes, burgers, quesadillas and tortas.
Next time: I’ll get that breakfast burrito and see if it lives up to the hype.
I’ve heard lots of good things about Santa Fe Kitchen, parked on Cerrillos Road by the pawn shop and the ice dispensary. This fetching, retro little truck serves dressed-up takes on classic dishes. Take the al pastor torta ($11) that the friendly window attendant recommended: The huge, soft roll overflowing with tender marinated pork came with ample slices of avocado, mayonnaise, grilled onion, cabbage, tomato and the mild welcome sweetness of pineapple. Another recommendation, the pescado tacos ($12), were as pretty as they were tasty, with perfectly grilled pieces of fish topped by cabbage, radish, cilantro, tomato, avocado and chipotle aioli, served with salsa, refried beans, rice and a griddled jalapeño.
Next time: I’ll try the window attendant’s third recommendation, the Chihuahua burger ($11), which is built with bacon, ham, cheese, avocado and franks. But I’ll balance that meat bomb with another order of fish tacos — I couldn’t bear to leave without them!
One of the highest-profile spots for food trucks in town is on the gravel at the Old Santa Fe Trail lot near the Capitol. There you’ll find Craft’s hugely popular fresh-made doughnuts as well as Thai, Italian, Mexican and New Mexican favorites. But you’ll also find one of the city’s favorite go-to spots for smoked meat: Santa Fe Barbeque, a bold red and black truck that offers pulled pork, beef brisket, turkey legs, chicken, sausage and everything in between. I took advantage of the June special for a discount on a half rack of baby back ribs (usually $14). I chose “original” from the range of available barbecue sauces and added a side of mac and cheese ($4). Mere minutes later, I had summertime in a bag — the tender, flavorful barbecue of my dreams paired with an individual portion of hot, crisp-on-top mac and cheese goodness.
Next time: I’m definitely getting the ultimate sampler ($40 for a full, $22 for a half ), which offers more than half-dozen tastes of the barbecue variety that’s available.
I’m more than a little ashamed I’ve never made it out to Bang Bite, though I’ve followed the truck’s mouth-watering social media presence through several locations over the years. Now, it’s perched outside Santa Fe Brewing Co.’s downtown Brakeroom location, where guests can sip a beer at canopied picnic tables while waiting for their orders.
Bang Bite’s menu is overwhelmingly indulgent, with nearly a dozen decadent burger choices. (Examples: the You Are My Boy Blue, with bacon, Amish blue cheese, maple bacon jam and garlic mayo; or The Gorito, with pickled jalapeño, avocado, asadero cheese, jalapeño mayo and grilled onions.) There are also a few sandwiches and grilled cheeses, similarly maximalist and equally tempting.
In the face of all these options, I kept things simple with the green chile cheeseburger ($17). It was cooked perfectly medium to order, and it was, to invoke a phrase, paradise: a flavorful patty and soft grilled bun, cheddar cheese melting seamlessly into the green chile mayo, lettuce and tomato adding a little definition, green chile with just enough kick.
And the fries! Some of the best I’ve had. Hand-cut and blazing hot, crisp and lightly seasoned — and utterly addictive. (You can get them on their own for $8, or topped with cheese, bacon and green chile for $15, and I will absolutely be getting both versions in the near future.)
Next time: A different burger, the same fries, and a $1 side of maple bacon jam for dipping.
Bang Bite just might have the perfect spot for its food truck customers. But let this be a reminder that you can find great food just about anywhere, whether it’s the destination or an accidental discovery along the way.