Soundings

Buy local lobsters; harvesting them yourself is illegal.

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com). Stravinsky’s Pollack, eu.nvcharts. the anchorages are farther apart and more exposed, and the shoreside facilities are very few, far between and limited. This is territory for serious boaters who know what they’re doing, are fully provisione­d and self-reliant, and are able to take care of themselves.

That being said, I have never seen such pure, powdery white sand, perfect palm-tree-lined beaches and mesmerizin­g cerulean water, or snorkeled through such fish-filled coral reefs, with almost no one else around. Whatever else it has meant for those on land, Cuba’s isolation from the modern world has been a blessing for its waters and all that lives within. Bob Vanderlind­e clears Stravinsky with a Guarda Frontera officer.

Bareboat chartering is relatively new in Cuba. The southern city of Cienfuegos is the only base. Just three charter firms offer a total of three dozen or so boats, almost all sailing catamarans. We used Dream Yacht Charters, a French firm.

Under current U. S. rules, generally only group visits by Americans are allowed into Cuba, using one of the 12 U. S.- approved classes of travel. “Vacation” and “pleasure” travel are not authorized; our trip was classified as a “people-to-people” visit. We chartered seven sailboats, using a Cuban-American travel agency to handle all the tickets, visas and paperwork.

There are only two cruising destinatio­ns on the south coast — separate offshore island chains stretching to the east and west, each a full day’s sail away. To the southeast is Jardines de la Reina, considered the biggest

 ??  ?? out of Cienfuegos SPECIAL DELIVERY:
out of Cienfuegos SPECIAL DELIVERY:

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