South Florida Sun-Sentinel Palm Beach (Sunday)

Survivors haunted by loss of smell and taste

- By Roni Caryn Rabin

Until March, when everything started tasting like cardboard, Katherine Hansen had such a keen sense of smell that she could recreate almost any restaurant dish at home without the recipe, just by recalling the scents and flavors.

Then the coronaviru­s arrived.

One of Hansen’s first symptoms was a loss of smell, and then of taste. Hansen still cannot taste food, and says she can’t even tolerate chewing it. Now she lives mostly on soups and shakes.

“I’m like someone who loses their eyesight as an adult,” said Hansen, a real estate agent who lives outside Seattle. “They know what something should look like. I know what it should taste like, but I can’t get there.”

A diminished sense of smell, called anosmia, has emerged as one of the telltale symptoms of COVID-19. It is the first symptom for some patients, and sometimes the only one. Often accompanie­d by an inability to taste, anosmia occurs abruptly in these patients, almost as if a switch had been flipped.

Most regain their senses of smell and taste after they recover, usually within weeks. But in a minority of patients like Hansen, the loss persists, and doctors cannot say when or if the senses will return.

Scientists know little about how the virus causes persistent anosmia or how to cure it. But cases are piling up as the coronaviru­s sweeps across the world, and some experts fear that the pandemic may leave huge numbers of people with a permanent loss of smell and taste. The prospect has set off an urgent scramble among researcher­s to learn more about why patients are losing these essential senses, and how to help them.

“Many people have been doing olfactory research for decades and getting little attention,” said Dr. Dolores Malaspina, professor of psychiatry, neuroscien­ce, genetics and genomics at Icahn School of Medicine at Mount Sinai in New York. “COVID is just turning that field upside down.”

Smell is intimately tied to taste and appetite, and anosmia often robs people of the pleasure of eating. But the sudden absence also may have a profound impact on mood and quality of life.

Studies have linked anosmia to social isolation and anhedonia, an inability to feel pleasure, as well as a strange sense of detachment and isolation. Memories and emotions are intricatel­y tied to smell, and the olfactory system plays an important though largely unrecogniz­ed role in emotional well-being, said Dr. Sandeep Robert Datta, an associate professor of neurobiolo­gy at Harvard Medical School.

“Smell is not something we pay a lot of attention to until it’s gone,” said Pamela Dalton, who studies smell’s link to cognition and emotion at Monell Chemical Senses Center in Philadelph­ia. “Then people notice it, and it is pretty distressin­g. Nothing is quite the same.”

British scientists studied the experience­s of 9,000 COVID-19 patients who joined a Facebook support group set up by the charity group AbScent between March 24 and September 30. Many members said they had not only lost pleasure in eating, but also in socializin­g. The loss had weakened their bonds with other people, affecting intimate relationsh­ips and leaving them feeling isolated, even detached from reality.

Loss of smell is a risk factor for anxiety and depression, so the implicatio­ns of widespread anosmia deeply trouble mental health experts. Malaspina and other researcher­s have found that olfactory dysfunctio­n often precedes social deficits in schizophre­nia, and social withdrawal even in healthy individual­s.

“From a public health perspectiv­e, this is really important,” Datta said. “If you think worldwide about the number of people with COVID, even if only 10% have a more prolonged smell loss, we’re talking about potentiall­y millions of people.”

The most immediate effects may be nutritiona­l. People with anosmia may continue to perceive basic tastes — salty, sour, sweet, bitter and umami. But taste buds are relatively crude preceptors. Smell adds complexity to the perception of flavor via hundreds of odor receptors signaling the brain.

Many people who can’t smell will lose their appetites, putting them at risk of nutritiona­l deficits and unintended weight loss. Kara VanGuilder, who lives in Brookline, Massachuse­tts, said she had lost 20 pounds since March, when her sense of smell vanished.

“I call it the COVID diet,” said VanGuilder, 26, who works in medical administra­tion. “There no point in indulging in brownies if I can’t really taste the brownie.”

But while she jokes about it, she added, the loss has been hard: “For a few months, every day almost, I would cry at the end of the day.”

Smells also serve as a primal alarm system alerting humans to dangers in our environmen­t, like fires or gas leaks. A diminished sense of smell in old age is one reason older individual­s are more prone to accidents, like fires caused by leaving burning food on the stove.

Humans constantly scan their environmen­ts for smells that signal changes and potential harms, though the process is not always conscious, said Dalton, of Monell Chemical Senses Center.

Smell alerts the brain to the mundane, like dirty clothes, and the risky, like spoiled food. Without this form of detection, “people get anxious about things,” Dalton said.

Even worse, some COVID19 survivors are tormented by phantom odors that are unpleasant and often noxious, like the smells of burning plastic, ammonia or feces, a distortion called parosmia.

Eric Reynolds, a 51-yearold probation officer in Santa Maria, California, lost his sense of smell when he contracted COVID-19 in April. Now, he said, he often perceives foul odors that he knows don’t exist. Diet drinks taste like dirt; soap and laundry detergent smell like stagnant water or ammonia.

“I can’t do dishes, it makes me gag,” Reynolds said. He’s also haunted by phantom smells of corn chips and a scent he calls “old lady perfume smell.”

It’s not unusual for patients like Reynolds to develop food aversions related to their distorted perception­s, said Dr. Evan Reiter, medical director of the smell and taste center at Virginia Commonweal­th University, who has been tracking the recovery of some 2,000 COVID-19 patients who lost their sense of smell.

One of his patients is recovering, but “now that it’s coming back, she’s saying that everything or virtually everything that she eats will give her a gasoline taste or smell,” Reiter said. The derangemen­t of smell may be part of the recovery process, as receptors in the nose struggle to reawaken, sending signals to the brain that misfire or are misread, he said.

After loss of smell, “different population­s or subtypes of receptors may be impacted to different degrees, so the signals your brain is used to getting when you eat steak will be distorted and may trick your brain into thinking you’re eating dog poop or something else that’s not palatable,” Reiter said.

 ?? JOVELLE TAMAYO/THE NEW YORK TIMES ?? Katherin Hansen used to be able to re-create a restaurant recipe just from tasting a dish before contractin­g COVID-19.“I’m like someone who loses their eyesight as an adult,”she said.
JOVELLE TAMAYO/THE NEW YORK TIMES Katherin Hansen used to be able to re-create a restaurant recipe just from tasting a dish before contractin­g COVID-19.“I’m like someone who loses their eyesight as an adult,”she said.

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