South Florida Sun-Sentinel Palm Beach (Sunday)
POSTCARDS from the CARIBB EAN
Aruba, Bahamas — c’mon why don’t we go
The picture postcard is in trouble.
“[They’re] the latest endangered commodities being affected by twentysomethings who prefer to take selfies over buying and mailing the scenic ‘wish you were here’ sentiment,” “MarketWatch” reports.
It’s hard to even find picture postcards these days. The racks of them we used to see in front of touristy spots seem to have disappeared — and that was true even before COVID-19 lockdowns moved them out of reach in the interest of health. When was the last time you remember getting one in the mail? (When was the last time you remember getting anything interesting in the mail, but that’s another story.)
While the postcard may be in risk of cancellation, we say there’ll always be demand for the “wish you were here’s” we used to write on postcards — even if we’re not writing many posts on, well, cards anymore.
Here are five postcards from recent trips to the Caribbean Basin, which left us wishing we were there again.
The Cove
Atlantis Paradise Island, One Casino Drive, Suite 41, Paradise Island, the Bahamas; atlantisbahamas.com
Six hundred suites overlooking Aquaventure, a 141-acre water park; beach, 30,000-square-foot Mandara Spa, Atlantis Kids Adventures, teen club, 18-hole golf course, open-air marine habitat, with over 50,000 marine animals from 250 species; casino, Marina Village with dockage for yachts up to 220 feet, 14-acre Dolphin Cay marine-mammal habitat and numerous lounges and fine dining restaurants.
Why we wish you were here: Because you won’t stop wondering, “How’d they do
that?” As in, How’d they keep all that glass in the jaw-dropping aquarium — full of manta rays, sharks, smalltooth sawfish — clean? (Divers in scuba gear, who keep scrubbing it as the fish swim by.) Or where did they get all that pink paint? Or how much fun is that 141-acre water park? (For the record, it is that much fun). The Atlantis resort is so big, so pink, so over-the-top-everywhere-with-everything, it’s even the focus of a lot of the art at The National Art Gallery of the Bahamas.
Overheard: “How’d they do that!?”
What’s cooking? You can tell the quality of a restaurant by the quality of its roast chicken, Julia Child famously said. We’re guessing she would have loved the quality of the Jerk Chicken at Fish by José Andrés at Atlantis. Also coming out of the kitchen here: substitute the word “Conch” for “Shrimp” in “Forrest Gump” and you’d get Bubba Blue ticking off Conch Scorched, Conch Grilled, Cracked Conch, Conch with Tropical Salad, Conch Fritters … and so Conch on. Oh, and if you don’t know what to order from the menu at Nobu on the other side of the resort, just go with the chef knows-what-you-wantto-order omakase menu. You’re welcome.
What’s drinking? Bahamian Sky Juice (1 ½ oz. gin, ¾ oz. sweetened condensed milk, ½ oz. coconut water and lime). Shake everything but the lime, pour over ice, add lime and serve. At least we think that’s the recipe. Our notes got a little watermarked in the beach cabana research station. Or possibly Sky Juice marked.
Don’t miss: Atlantis is so big, so pink, so over-thetop-everywhere-with-everything it’s impossible to miss anything.
Could miss: The feeling you’re in a beautiful bubble here — separated, actually, by bridges and toll booth on Paradise Island — from the rest of the Bahamas. Don’t become so blissed out here you miss getting to know the islands, and the islanders, too. Shake the sand out of your shoes, walk across the bridge and explore a little. If nothing else, take a taxi over to The National Art Gallery of the Bahamas, and see how Bahamian artists see Atlantis, depicted in many media.
Margaritaville Beach Resort Nassau
2 Bay St., Nassau, the Bahamas; margaritavilleresorts.com/margaritaville-beach-resort-nassau
Three hundred rooms, including 68 suites; 2-acre Fins Up water park, St. Somewhere Spa, children’s center, 45-slip marina, and 12 food and beverage
options.
Why we wish you were here: Because from the balcony of these comfortable, lessthan-a-year-old rooms — all facing Nassau Harbour — you could spend hours watching the cruise ships, tugboats, Royal Bahamian Navy vessels, superyachts, jet skis arrive and depart. It’s such a good show you might even forget the two-acre Fins Up waterpark — featuring 1,000foot lazy river, waterslides and pools — on the ground floor below. You might also forget you’re just steps away from such Bay Street attractions as Nassau’s Straw Market, Rawson Square (live music and craft bazaar), The Bahamas Rum Cake Factory, the small (but exquisite) National Art Gallery of the Bahamas, John Watling’s Distillery (free sample with tour!) or the how-didthey-do-that wonder of the Queen’s Staircase, a short calorie-burn up the hill.
Overheard: “Hello, front desk? There’s a cruise ship in my room!”
What’s cooking? There’s a Cheeseburger in Paradise on the menu here, of course, at the Vacation Café. (Waistline away again in Margaritaville.) But on an unseasonable 59-degree morning, our favorite dish was a steaming bowl of cinnamon oatmeal and raisins. Oatmeal in Paradise.
What’s drinking? We could go all Fin with a “Who’s to Blame” margarita or a “Five O’Clock Somewhere” boat drink, but we’ll take “The Good Life” (Casamigos Blanco Tequila, Grand Marnier Orange Liqueur, Earl Grey Agave and lime juice), especially around sunset overlooking the marina at the resort’s JWB Prime Steak and Seafood. Sip and consider what a well-named beverage this is.
Don’t miss: Graycliff Sky Bar, on the 10th floor. Come for the views of Nassau Harbour, stay for the fine sipping rums and “Casablanca”-caliber mix of international clientele — including the occasional Bahamian official in full uniform — and the odd American with a Shazam app trying to ID the DJ’s (mostly Jamaican) playlist. (Random sample: “Ravin” by Popcaan, “Hey Sexy Lady” by Shaggy Feat and “Wine Pon Di Ting” by DeMarco.) All of this swirling around a bar bathed in smoky blue-violet light — and clouds of cigar-smoke mystery — late, late into the night. Here’s looking at you, kids.
Could miss: If you are not in a mood to mingle with the “Casablanca”-caliber crowd on the 10th floor, and just want some sleep after multiple Fins Up waterslides, the aforementioned island songs wafting from Graycliff Sky Bar will still find you through the walls of your room late, late into the night. Oh, and we also missed having hot water in the room on two of the three-night stay. The staff was nice and eager to try — and keep trying! — to fix it, which they did just in time for departure. Fortunately, there was plenty of warm water — and relaxing calm — at St. Elsewhere
Spa on the second floor.
Ocean Cay, MSC Marine Reserve
MSC Cruises’ private island, approximately 20 miles south of Bimini in the Bahamas. mscoceancay. com/en-us/
A short walk down a gangway from the docked ship, through a Bahamian-style village for shopping, food trucks (Lobster Bacon Roll, Fried Calamari, Grilled Octopus Salad), beach bars, chairs, umbrellas, lighthouse (featuring a light show), sports area, spa, wedding pavilion, about two miles of walkway around the island, central lagoon and about two miles of white-sand beaches.
Why we wish you were here: Because after seconds at the Artisanal Pizza bar on Deck 16 of the MSC “Seashore,” after a glass of Collepiano 2017 Montefalco Sagrantino in The Wine Cellar on Deck 8, after a scoop of gelato at the Jungle Pool Beach bar on Deck 16, after a glass of Moët & Chandon at the Champagne & Wine
Bar on Deck 7, after fresh sushi, sashimi and tempura from the conveyor belt at the Kaito Sushi Bar on Deck 8, after some Homemade Lobster Ravioli at the TriBeCa Restaurant on Deck 6 … after all that, it’s nice to get off the boat, stretch your legs — and see what’s on the menu over at Ocean Cay, MSC Cruises’ private island in the Bahamas.
Overheard: No passport required: “All you need is your stateroom key card and your excitement,” the cruise ship director says at the gangplank. “And, of course, bring your beach towels from your cabin.”
What’s cooking? Not that we arrived hungry on Ocean Cay, for the aforementioned food reasons aboard the “Seashore.” That said, the fall-off-thebone barbecue ribs at Seakers Food Court is worth the walk — even a swim — over from the boat.
Not that we arrived thirsty on Ocean Cay, for the aforementioned beverage reasons aboard “Seashore,” too. But those barbecue ribs were especially tasty with a cold Kalik — “The Beer of the Bahamas” — on the beach. Cheers.
Don’t miss: The lighthouse light show on the beach after dark.
Could miss: The boat if you fall asleep on the beach during the light show. (Naw, they’d come back for you. In a day or two.)
Nassau
New Providence Island, the Bahamas; bahamas. com/islands/nassau-paradise-island
Why we wish you were here: Because the Bahamian capital is back with all its pre-COVID-19 vibrancy. Cruise ships ply the aquamarine waters of Nassau Harbour, disembarking thousands of visitors each day onto Bay Street. Live music spills out of Rawson’s Square; taxis double park in front of The Bahamas Rum Cake Factory; a man in Junkanoo attire greets visitors to The Queen’s Staircase, saying “Welcome to the islands — I am the custodian here.” (Maybe he is). Visitors line up for a free tour — and sample — at John Watling’s Distillery, where 40-proof bottles of rum share shelf space with 70-proof bottles of hand sanitizer also produced on site. (Choose wisely.)
Overheard: “On March 15, 2020, COVID-19 silently crawled onto our shores. Slow at first but soon fast moving. Lockdowns ensued. Travel halted. Businesses closed. Tourism ceased. Most tragically, the pandemic claimed the lives of many. May they rest in peace. … But time passed and the Bahamas grew closer and closer to finding its compass. Its direction. A sense of normalcy.” — Bahamian abstract artist Arielle Rahming, from her “Readjusting the Cardinal North,” at The National Art Gallery of the Bahamas.
What’s cooking? I told the tuxedoed waiter at Nassau’s venerable Graycliff Restaurant I couldn’t decide between Butternut Squash Soup — the “Specialite du Chef ” — or Graycliff Style Conch Chowder. “Conch chowder,” he said, before I could even get the word “chowder” out of my mouth. He was right. So right I decided to forgo “Graycliff ’s famous soufflés” (Chocolate, Grand Marnier, Banana, Guava, Strawberry, Coconut Rum) and get another bowl of chowder for dessert.
What’s drinking? The Bahama Grammy, said to have been served first at Nassau’s Pink Elephant Club in 1963. John Watling’s Distillery claims to follow the original recipe, using amber rum, coffee liqueur, coconut rum, Gun Cay 151-proof rum, pineapple juice, lime juice and two dashes of Grenadine. Fortunately, the walk back to Bay Street is downhill.
Don’t miss: The National Art Gallery of the Bahamas, in historic Villa Doyle on West and West Hill Streets. I looked around the recent exhibition, “Medicine & Memory,” about public health in the Bahamas, and realized I was the only person in the museum. I was embarrassed I had all the riches of this small, exquisite museum to myself. I couldn’t believe my luck — or that none of the thousands of people from cruise ships that day had found their way here, too.
Could miss: The long line at U.S. passport control at Nassau’s airport. When I got to the front of the slow-moving, zigzagging line (about an hour and 15 minutes), I told the officer I’d been in line so long I’d forgotten what I came for. She laughed. I think she’d heard that before.
Hyatt Regency Aruba Resort Spa & Casino, J.E. Irausquin Blvd 85, Noord, Aruba, hyatt.com/en-US/ hotel/aruba/hyatt-regencyaruba-resort-spa-and-casino/aruba
The 12-acre resort’s 359 rooms and suites overlook Aruba’s famed Palm Beach, pools and lush tropical grounds. Open-air lobby, three-level pool complex, two-story waterslide, ZoiA Spa with fitness center, tennis courts, Camp Hyatt for kids, sundry and pool/ beachwear stores, casino, adults-only Trankilo pool with 10 outdoor private cabanas; nine meeting rooms, nine food and beverage options.
Why we wish you were here:
Because of this breezy, comfortable and friendly resort’s central location on Aruba’s famed Palm Beach, a Caribbean ramblas of seaside sights, music and fine dining. Splash into the pool from the two-story waterslide, swim up to the bar (try the Diamond Sangria) or get a cabana with a thatch umbrella — complete with food and drink service — on a whitesand beach that will leave you wondering, how come our sand and water don’t look like this?
Overheard: “Come back the day after tomorrow, we’ll make ceviche!” — cook Jaeger Croes, wrapping up his beachfront cooking experience at the resort.
Today was guacamole — which was, admittedly, pretty easy on people who are vacationing from having to cook at home.
The ceviche is probably the hardest class he teaches, he says. He uses locally sourced grouper, cut into small cubes, dipped in lime juice and, in three minutes, voila. Important lessons to remember when the vacation’s over.
What’s cooking? Cook Jaeger Croes, who grew up on Aruba, raved about the Sea Bass at the resort’s restaurant, Ruinas del
Mar — and it was indeed a locally source masterpiece, served with coconut basmati rice, red bell pepper, asparagus, fennel, cilantro, ginger and lime. But if you’re going for just one dish before going back to the airport, he recommended the Land & Sea, featuring a 6 oz. butterpoached lobster, 12-oz New York steak, sweet potato gratin and seasonal vegetables. When in doubt, always get what the chef recommends.
What’s drinking? Biba Dushi (Aruba’s Battle of the Bartenders winner, 2017.) 1 oz. Vodka
½ oz. Ginger Liquor
½ oz. Guava Purée
3 oz. Pineapple Juice
¼ oz. Fresh Lime Juice Combine the ingredients, add ice and shake until well mixed. Pour into a seashellshaped cocktail glass and serve.
Biba Dushi, by the way, means “living the sweet life” in Papiamento, the local language of Aruba. To which we say, especially after a couple of these, mashi danki — “thank you very much.”
Don’t miss: The complimentary SnappyScreen spinning sun-tan lotion-application booth, located on the beach. Just select your SPF (15, 30 or 40) on the touch-screen control, step into the wood-lined booth, close your eyes and let the machine spray on the lotion as you spin. Who said saying safe in the sun wasn’t fun?
Could miss: Your plane back if you fall asleep in the cabana on the beach. Seriously, it’s that Chill — which also happens to be the name of the local beer.