South Florida Sun-Sentinel (Sunday)

Lost Caligula mosaic finally home

Italian museum puts piece from ‘floating palace’ on display

- By Elisabetta Povoledo

NEMI, Italy — If stones could speak, the mosaic unveiled recently at an archaeolog­ical museum just south of Rome would have quite the tale to tell.

It was crafted in the first century for the deck of one of two spectacula­rly decorated ships on Lake Nemi that the emperor Caligula commission­ed as floating palaces. Recovered from underwater wreckage in 1895, the mosaic was later lost for decades, only to reemerge several years ago as a coffee table in the living room of a New York City antiques dealer.

“If you look at it from an angle, you can still see traces of a ring from a cup bottom,” said Daniela De Angelis, director of the Museum of the Roman Ships in Nemi, referring to the piece’s modern use.

The mosaic has been installed in the museum next to two other marble fragments salvaged from Caligula’s ships and was put on display last week.

“For us, it’s a great satisfacti­on today to see the mosaic in this museum,” said Maj. Paolo Salvatori of Italy’s elite art theft squad, whose investigat­ions led to the mosaic’s return. “Bringing back cultural artifacts to their original context” is the ultimate goal of the squad, he said, and the recovery of the mosaic reflected cooperatio­n among the squad, Italy’s cultural authoritie­s and law enforcemen­t in the United

States.

Caligula’s rule lasted from A.D. 37 to 41, but he enthusiast­ically embraced the trappings of the position, including an opulent residentia­l compound on the Esquiline Hill in Rome, a villa on the southwest shore of Lake Nemi and the two ships.

“They were floating palaces,” whose “aquatic luxury” was likely inspired by a renowned barge used by

Marc Antony and Cleopatra on the Nile, said Massimo Osanna, director general of Italy’s national museums.

With Caligula’s death, the ships were destroyed and sank to the bottom of the lake.

Various attempts to raise them over the centuries were unsuccessf­ul as well as damaging, and the wrecks were repeatedly plundered.

In 1895, antiquaria­n Eliseo Borghi managed to recover part of the ship’s decorative bounty, including some of the bronze decoration­s and parts of the marble floor. These items — including the recently returned mosaic, which he had restored using fragments of ancient marble integrated with modern pieces — were sold to museums in Italy and elsewhere in Europe as well as to private collectors.

The location of the deck mosaic would have likely remained unknown had it not been for the 2013 presentati­on in New York of a book by an Italian marble expert, Dario Del Bufalo, on the use of red porphyry in imperial art. He happened to show a photograph of the missing mosaic.

“That’s Helen’s table,” Del Bufalo recalled one of the attendees exclaiming. Helen turned out to be Helen Costantino Fioratti, president of L’Antiquaire and the Connoisseu­r, a Manhattan fine art and antiques gallery.

Del Bufalo said that he had assisted Italy’s art theft squad in identifyin­g Fioratti’s mosaic as the section of the marble floor restored by Borghi. The piece was seized by U.S. authoritie­s in 2017 and returned to Italy. Fioratti said at the time that she and her husband had bought the mosaic in good faith, in the late 1960s, from a member of an aristocrat­ic family.

“She cared a lot about that table,” Del Bufalo said. He said that the marble had been seized because Fioratti could not prove that it had been legally exported to the United States. She was never charged with any crimes in Italy.

Caligula’s ships were finally recovered between

1929 and 1931, after the lake was drained, an enterprise that exemplifie­d “the highest feat of Italian hydraulic engineerin­g,” said Alberto Bertucci, mayor of Nemi, which is arguably better known for its strawberri­es than its archaeolog­ical heritage.

The Nemi museum was specially designed in the

1930s to house the massive ships — which measured roughly 240 feet long and 78 feet wide — as well as other artifacts dredged up at the time, including fragments of mosaics and brass tiles that covered the roof of a structure on one of the ships.

But on the night of May

31, 1944, the ships were destroyed by a fire that scholars believe was deliberate­ly set by German troops.

“There was little left afterward because the fire was devastatin­g,” De Angelis said.

But some artifacts survived because they had been sent to Rome for safekeepin­g.

“The fire in the museum was ignited to destroy, and it did not disappoint,” said the Rev. John McManamon, a visiting scholar at the Institute of Nautical Archaeolog­y at Texas A&M University, who has written a book on the ships that is scheduled to be published next year. McManamon’s research backed the conclusion­s of a

1944 investigat­ive commission that found that “in all likelihood, the fire that destroyed the two ships was caused by a deliberate choice on the part of the German soldiers,” he wrote in an email.

Bertucci said he had initiated discussion­s with Italy’s Foreign Ministry about demanding compensati­on from the German government for the destructio­n of the ships. Any money received would be used to build scale models of the ships and to “return to humanity what was lost,” he said last week.

“Today is a very important day,” De Angelis said last week at the unveiling. “Visitors to the museum will find a new addition in its natural place, alongside other marble fragments from the ship, as if it had never been away.”

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