China pulls H&M from internet amid backlash
The Swedish retailer’s products were gone from top e-commerce sites after its decision to stop buying cotton from Xinjiang.
HONG KONG — H&M disappeared from the internet in China as the government raised pressure on shoe and clothing brands and announced sanctions Friday against British officials in a spiraling fight over complaints of abuses in the Xinjiang region.
H&M products were missing from major e-commerce platforms including Alibaba and JD.com following calls by state media for a boycott over the Swedish retailer’s decision to stop buying cotton from Xinjiang.
Shockwaves spread to other brands as dozens of celebrities called off endorsement deals with Nike, Adidas, Burberry, Uniqlo and Lacoste after state media criticized the brands for expressing concern about Xinjiang.
Brands are struggling to respond to pressure abroad to distance themselves from abuses without triggering Chinese retaliation and losing access to one of the biggest and fastest-growing markets.
Tencent, which operates games and the popular WeChat message service, announced it was removing Burberry-designed costumes from a popular mobile phone game.
In a high-tech version of the airbrushing used by China and other authoritarian regimes to delete political enemies from historic photos, H&M’s approximately 500 stores in China didn’t show up on ride-hailing app Didi Chuxing or map services operated by Alibaba and Baidu. Its smartphone app disappeared from app stores.
It wasn’t clear whether companies received orders to erase
H&M’s online presence, but Chinese enterprises are expected to fall in line without being told. Regulators have broad powers to punish companies that fail to support official policy.
The ruling Communist Party’s Youth League launched attacks Wednesday on H&M following the European Union’s decision to join the United States, Britain and Canada in imposing sanctions on Chinese officials blamed for abuses in Xinjiang.
More than 1 million members of the Uyghur and other predominantly Muslim ethnic minorities have been confined to detention camps in Xinjiang, according to foreign governments and researchers. Authorities there are accused of imposing forced labor and coercive birth control measures.
The Chinese government rejects complaints of abuses and says the camps are for job training to support economic development and combat Islamic radicalism.
An H&M outlet in Shanghai had only a handful of customers on Friday afternoon.
“I wasn’t aware of the backlash. I came here to buy a coat for spring because H&M is reasonably priced and fashionable,” said Wang Yuying, a 52-year-old retiree who was shopping at the store.
“I’ll still buy something since I’m already here, but if this backlash lasts for a really long time, I will buy less from this brand.”
H&M’s announcement last year that it no longer would use Xinjiang cotton cited the BCI’s move to stop licensing cotton from the region because it was difficult to trace how it was produced.
It was unclear why the party targeted H&M, whose expression of concern about Xinjiang was similar to that of other companies. But its home country of Sweden might be seen by Chinese leaders as more susceptible to pressure due to its small size.