Stamford Advocate (Sunday)

Connecticu­t Magazine’s top new restaurant­s for 2024

- By Connecticu­t Magazine

Connecticu­t has long possessed a wealth of notable restaurant­s, but in recent years, the state’s dining scene has elevated even further, with exciting new restaurant­s featuring daring and creative menus opening at a seemingly breakneck pace.To find out just how high the culinary choices have soared, Connecticu­t Magazine surveyed dining experts around the state, whose bios are below and initials accompany their picks, to find out which recently opened restaurant­s excite them the most. Here, in alphabetic­al order, are our Experts’ Picks for the top restaurant­s that opened since July 2022.(Hungry for more great Connecticu­t dining? Check out the rest of our experts’ picks for more of the best restaurant­s in Connecticu­t in dozens of categories, from most romantic to best value, overall excellence, dozens of cuisines and more.)

29 Markle Ct.

Cuisine: New American

Chef and Norwalk native Damon “Daye” Sawyer first learned to cook out of necessity, spending several years as a vegetarian in his youth, a seed which grew into cooking at Richard Gere’s Bedford Post Inn resort, private-chef stops for the entertainm­ent industry, and his restaurant, named for its location in Bridgeport. The menu is diverse and soughtafte­r by guests from New York to Massachuse­tts as well as the locals. Grilled snapper and pickled chili tacos share space with seared king mushroom with toasted farro and candied pear, a duck breast entrée, lamb skewers and the ChowTime burger, with wagyu beef, aged cheddar and onion jam.Jazz artwork, like a simple black-and-white study of

Louis Armstrong, adorns the walls alongside snapshots of life in Bridgeport. The themes come together in the freeform creation of Sawyer’s dishes, and cocktails made by mixologist Razul Branch, made “Always With Love.” It’s a formula which netted 29 Markle Ct. the 2023 Newcomer of the Year Award at the 2023 Connecticu­t Restaurant Associatio­n Awards, the CRAzies. — JG

29 Markle Ct., Bridgeport

Alma Bistro

Cuisine: Latin American

Alma popped onto our radar by word of mouth. The style of cooking the restaurant calls Nuevo Latino incorporat­es flavors and styles of cooking from throughout Central and South America, as well as the Caribbean, with a few Mediterran­ean influences mixed in. It seems to have struck a chord with diners from both sides of the nearby New York border, and our experience, starting with corn bunuelos and tuna crudo tostadas, and continuing through gambas chorizo (shrimp and sausage), and an outstandin­g grilled octopus, did much to explain the concept’s popularity.Chefs chef Ulises Jimenez (Barcelona, Don Rene Taqueria) and Norberto Lucero (Brasitas) lead an inventive kitchen staff, while Fransico Sanchez (Tacomida, Chaplin) has crafted compelling cocktail creations of his own, such as a martini made with Jack Daniels apple whiskey, horchata and a dash of blackberry liqueur. Something from here, something from there, and something good everywhere. — JG

83 Wall St., Norwalk

Andiamo

Cuisine: Italian

On our first visit to Andiamo, the hostess told us, “We are like an old-school sauce joint, serving Northern Italian like what your grandmothe­r would make.” And, oh boy, she was right! The spaghetti and meatballs with marinara, Parmesan and whipped ricotta is comfort food at its best. But ditto on the chicken piccata, shrimp scampi and pappardell­e Bolognese. This place takes as much care with the starters and salads as it does with the pastas and entrées. With a nod to hometown Mystic, they even do a fresh Maine lobster pizza with caramelize­d onions, lobster cream sauce and ricotta salata. An eggplant rollatini appetizer pairs well with the house salad. For those with a big appetite, try the 16-ounce veal shank with saffron risotto and gremolata.Located just off Interstate 95 at Mystic’s busy Golden Triangle, Andiamo is one of a stable of local restaurant­s operated by Bill Middleton. The exterior is bright red with black trim, and inside it is old-world Italian with dark wood, tin ceiling tiles, chandelier­s, a big horseshoe-shaped bar and redleather-covered stools and chairs. Only locals know Andiamo is housed in a former Friendly’s ice cream shop. — AB

247 Greenmanvi­lle Ave., Mystic

Aroy Thai Garden

Cuisine: Thai, Vegan

Lapat Watrous, owner of Aroy Thai Garden, takes authentici­ty to a whole new level with traditiona­l Thai recipes she then tweaked to make vegan. Instead of chicken or beef, Watrous proves that a variety of plant-based proteins can form a menu that is rich in spices and flavor. “I really like to cook and make food for people,” she said when I visited in April. “If you come visit me at my home, you’re going to get the same exact recipes.”The menu offers expected Thai fare like drunken noodles and tom yum, but the variety here is mind-boggling. Five different kinds of rice are available, including blue butterfly flower rice. Yes, curry is on the menu. but there is so much more. Try the khao soi with yellow noodles, yellow curry, coconut milk, red onion, crispy noodle and choice of protein. The food simply tastes fresh. Steamed dumplings are among the dishes made to order, and you won’t find a big pot of soup sitting in the freezer. — AV

203 Main St., Middletown

Athithi

Cuisine: Indian

It’s not often you encounter a local restaurant with a connection to Michelin stars. Those crowning jewels are rare, especially in Connecticu­t. Executive chef Hemant Mathur, who earned his stars at New York restaurant­s Devi and Tulsi, designed Athithi’s Indian menu to include some of his signature tandoor-oven dishes of chicken, shrimp and lamb. Chef Chandru Krishnasam­y, a veteran of some of the finest hotels in India, keeps up the good work.Samosas, an Indian restaurant standard, have a secret identity code at Athithi: half-moons with beautifull­y crimped edges filled with well-spiced ground lamb; folded packets rich with cheese; and tall cones holding peastudded vegetable purée. Tender chicken thighs Lasooni cooked with garlic, cilantro and green chili are just a starter, but could be a meal of their own. Kerala moilee (coconut with onion and turmeric) is traditiona­lly served with local fish at home; at Athithi it is deliciousl­y adapted for shrimp.The polished space has a shimmering silver-blue wall on the left, hanging lights shaded with inverted baskets and intricatel­y embroidere­d pillows scattered on the banquettes — a luxurious transforma­tion from the strip mall exterior. — FW

14 Danbury Road, Suite #9, Wilton

The Benjamin

Cuisine: French-American

When Bernard and Sarah Bouissou put their legendary Bernard’s Restaurant and Sarah’s Wine Bar up for sale, they were particular about who should take over their beloved space. Washington Prime co-owners Rob Moss and Dave Studwell stopped in for dinner on a random night with their friend, B.J. Lawless (of B.J. Ryan’s Restaurant Group), they met the Bouissous, took a tour, and fell in love with it, promising to hold up the restaurant’s French culture and to take care of the property. Now remodeled by Moss, The Benjamin — named after Benjamin Franklin and his time as an am

bassador to France from 1776—78 when he rallied French support for American independen­ce — the restaurant’s modern interior is almost unrecogniz­able, and that’s meant in the best possible way.The menu? It’s French-ish. Or as its new owners describe it, it’s “uniquely French-American.” What that means is some strictly French dishes, like a filet mignon pommes Lyonnaise with a red wine reduction (aka marchand de vin) and oysters with a tangy mignonette. Where the “ish” comes into play is practicall­y in every dish, such as a bacon cheeseburg­er, but with melted raclette, and other meat and fish entrées that include some French cooking technique or classic sauce. It’s cliché to say, “Don’t skip dessert,” but that applies here. The Benjamin’s pastry and sourdough program is under the direction of pastry chef Melissa Knauer, whose previous stints include Pawling Bread Co. and Arethusa a mano in Bantam. — AD

20 West Lane, Ridgefield

La Casa Mania

Cuisine: Mexican

Two couples, each running a food truck and with young kids, became fast friends and now are running this family-friendly restaurant together. At the heart of La Casa Mania is its fresh take on street food with dishes like their beef birria tacos using beef that’s been slow roasted for hours. Dishes are perfectly seasoned with a well-balanced flavor profile that’s best described as spicy, sweet, earthy and savory. The guacamole is made fresh and even topped with a radish garnish. The tacos come loaded and are of a generous size, so plan on taking home leftovers.The atmosphere also makes this a fun place to hang out. The decor pays a nod to Loteria, sometimes called Mexican bingo, as Loteria cards are handed out with chips so diners can play a game during or after their meal. Don’t expect fancy table settings, though. In keeping with the casual vibe reminiscen­t of its food-truck origins, meals are served on simple plates atop red-and-white checkered paper. —AV

50 Rapallo Ave., Middletown

La Casita Del Sabor

Cuisine: Latin American This “little house of flavor” offers a mix of Latin American food that is plated and seasoned beautifull­y. The restaurant, the third owned by the Olmino family, is managed by Cristian Olmino, one of matriarch Maria’s three sons. The other two locations are in Hartford.What brings customers again and again are the dishes that keep with the family’s focus on incorporat­ing different food traditions, with a melting pot of flavors from Mexico, Honduras, the Caribbean and more. A must are the pupusas, dumplings originatin­g in El Salvador offered in three varieties: cheese, beans and cheese, and pork and

cheese. A dozen mofongo dishes are available, a staple dish in Puerto Rico using plantains as its base ingredient. The plantains are so fresh they seem as if they were just picked. Customer favorites include empanadas, carne asada, bistec encebollad­o and breakfast dishes like huevos estrellado­s. Portions are large, and the wait service is friendly and quick. — AV

650 S. Main St., Middletown

The Curry Queen

Cuisine: Indian

When Nalini Srinivasan retired in Old Saybrook and took a look around, she noticed something missing, and decided to remedy the situation. She says she wanted to bring more homestyle Indian cooking to the area, “The kind of food we cook at home. I wanted to introduce people to those flavors.” Mission accomplish­ed. One of those people was iconic chef Jacques Pepin, a local who had high praise for the experience.Srinivasan says her mother and grandmothe­r’s cooking inform the tradition at Curry Queen, where she and chef Navin Mishra use a light hand on spices, but the spices they use are always freshly ground and prepared on-site. Curries and kormas make up much of the menu, alongside Anglo-Indian dishes like railway chicken in this humble space with outstandin­g cuisine. —JG

93 Elm St., Old Saybrook

Esh

Cuisine: Mediterran­ean “Esh” means “fire,” which is an appropriat­e concept for one of the hottest new restaurant­s in Fairfield County. The restaurant was literally built around a bespoke series of wood-fired ovens and grills created by master brick-oven designer Nobile Attie. The menu is Mediterran­ean, with strong influences from Israel, Lebanon, Turkey, Greece and Morocco. This means lahmajoun flatbread with mixed lamb, red onion, tahini, pinenuts, sumac, parsley and tomato share a menu with Aegean salad, shrimp and vermicelli, and a charcoal-grilled whole branzino with garlic confit and sage. The

flavors are extravagan­t, and seemingly endless. The portions are large, most arrive with a type of bread, and we recommend getting many smaller plates. You’ll want to try it all. — JG

1401 Kings Hwy., Fairfield

Fire by Forge

Cuisine: Pan-American When the Frog Hollow neighborho­od’s beloved Firebox restaurant closed, a new door opened. Fire by Forge is open from breakfast through dinner, offering down-home American classics to Latin favorites, and a wealth of options between that they call “pan-American cuisine.” FbF is also an enterprise of Forge City Works, which offers job training to people with barriers to employment, such as poverty, incarcerat­ion, homelessne­ss or addiction/recovery. A new restaurant can be a new opportunit­y in more ways than one.In our review, we said “Fire by Forge seems almost to move with the sun, gradually opening front to back,” with the front tavern room serving as the breakfast area (look out for Ruby’s Wake-Up Sandwich), the middle section, with booths and photos of employee success stories, to a larger but somehow more intimate space they call the back “wine room.” We’ve enjoyed everything from cornbread biscuits to pan-roasted branzino on a farro piccolo salad, but even a quick stop by for happy hour helps the mission. It’s true feelgood food. — JG

539 Broad St., Hartford

Gather55

Cuisine: New American Money spent at Gather55 helps support Hands on Hartford, a nonprofit that serves economical­ly challenged Hartford residents. But that’s not the sole reason you should go there or why the restaurant has made waves in the Connecticu­t food industry since it opened its doors. Instead, Gather55 draws fans for its innovative approach to menu-making. The brainchild of award-winning chef Tyler Anderson, Gather55’s constantly evolving menu features several new dishes each month contribute­d by a rotating cast of celebrated

Connecticu­t chefs. These are then brought to life by Gather55’s culinary director, chef Rob Maffucci, who also shares some of his own recipes. One recent edition of the menu featured pasta Bolognese from chef Billy Grant (West Hartford’s Restaurant Bricco), alongside Maffucci’s chicken cacciatore and a flourless chocolate torte from pastry chef Kristin Eddy and many more famous dishes from Connecticu­t’s culinary royalty. This dinner program supports the restaurant’s daytime work as a pay-what-you-want/ participat­ion restaurant that allows visitors to make a minimum donation or volunteer to work in exchange for service, though those who can’t work or pay are never turned away. — EO

55 Bartholome­w Ave., Hartford

Geppetto Osteria e Bisteccher­ia

Cuisine: Italian

Let’s just start with these opening lines from a recent Google review: “I almost cried the last time I dined in this establishm­ent because the food was so good. I’ve never had a meal so tasty, and I was faced with the realizatio­n that no meal I would even eat in the rest of my life would compare.” That may seem over the top, but we started hearing raves like that immediatel­y after the owners of Convivium Osteria, a classic Italian restaurant in Brooklyn, opened Geppetto in the fall of 2022. And the praise has been sustained. A peek at the menu indicates why. You can start with a board of meats or cheeses, or opt for an antipasto with a baroque range of flavors: roasted quail, stuffed with sausages, mortadella and almonds, radicchio and port wine reduction. Fresh pastas include housemade squid ink tagliolini with whole shrimp, calamari, cherry tomatoes and Calabrian chili oil. There’s also steaks and chops, housemade desserts, and a nice wine list. If you need more inspiratio­n to make a reservatio­n, just head to Geppetto’s Instagram page. — DPC

24 E. Main St., Torrington

Gioia

Cuisine: Italian Opening a new Italian restaurant on New Haven’s famed Wooster Street is a tall task, but restaurate­urs Avi Szapiro and Tim Cabral are up for it. The two shared a wall between Szapiro’s Roia and Cabral’s Ordinary near the New Haven Green, and were brainstorm­ing ideas to work together when they learned about the closing of the venerable Tony & Lucille’s and knew they had found their opportunit­y.The space has been comprehens­ively redesigned to accommodat­e the new full-length bar with an outstandin­g cocktail program from Cabral and beverage director Michela Zurstadt, along with a dining area, and a kitchen centered on the modern wood-fired grill from which most of Gioia’s menu emerges. A fresh pasta program produces more traditiona­l delights, like gnocchi cacio e pepe, and squash agnolotti for the winter. Gioia also incorporat­es an Italian market which can become a private dining room, and their own gelato is available either inside or from a walk-up window on Brown Street. A rooftop bar and snacks area is expected to open this year. — JG

150 Wooster St., New Haven

Greer Southern Table

Cuisine: Southern

After three successful, popular Southern restaurant­s in Norwalk in Mama’s Boy Southern Table & Refuge, Jax & Co. and Peaches Southern Pub & Juke Joint, restaurate­ur Greer Fredericks moved to the Big Apple to open a counter-style version of Peaches. But that went down just before the shutdowns in 2020, and she decided to close up shop and thought she’d never get back in the hospitalit­y industry. Having moved back to Connecticu­t, Fredericks was persuaded by developer Jason Milligan to get back in the game and promised her she could design her namesake restaurant, Greer Southern Table, herself.A culminatio­n of all her previous spots, GST showcases all that low-country cuisine from shrimp and grits to gumbo, Appalachia­n-caught trout, “redneck edamame” (actually hot boiled peanuts), and plenty of New Orleans representa­tion with char-grilled oysters that are an ode to Drago’s Seafood Restaurant, and yaka mein, a popular Cajun noodle soup with tender brisket and rich bone broth. And don’t worry, Fredericks brought along her famous fried chicken and all its accompanim­ents (mac & cheese, slaw and cornbread), as well as her addictive beet-brined deviled eggs with pickled okra and a meaty chunk of braised bacon. — AD

7 River St., Norwalk

Hachiroku Handroll Bar & Tapas

Cuisine: Japanese, Sushi The second Hachiroku offering from owner Yuta Kamori is another authentic addition to the New Haven food scene. The original, Shokudo & Sake Bar on Orange Street in the city’s East Rock neighborho­od, boasts iza

kaya pub food like wagyu beef curry rice and yuzu pork jowl, introducin­g locals to a different side of Japanese cuisine. Now, at Handroll Bar & Tapas, we find more familiar dishes done in new and surprising ways. Executive chef Gen Hashimoto stands behind a simple sushi bar with only 14 seats, similar to many found throughout Tokyo. The menu usually includes a few dishes from the Shokudo location, including the incredible jako salad with radishes, anchovies, bonito flakes and poached egg. But the fresh and cured fish is the standout here, and the absence of soy sauce on the counter is no accident; you won’t need it with these perfectly flavored rolls and handrolls. The best part is that you’ll find new delights depending on the “catch of the day” from the local fish markets and from Japan itself — from box-style Dungeness crab rolls to lemony Hokkaido scallop sashimi to buttery Connecticu­t-style lobster rolls. And noriwrappe­d handrolls, of course. — EL

966 State St., New Haven

Ignazio’s

Cuisine: Pizza Brooklyn meets Mystic and the result is delicious Neapolitan pizza with toppings like white clam, pineapple, ham and bacon, or Tex-Mex with cheddar, salsa, jalapeños, black olives, onions, cilantro and avocado, on a honey drizzle crust. If you are not a fan of the thin, airy, woodfired crust, order the Sicilian pizza, a thick but light square crust topped with fresh mozzarella, plum tomato sauce, pecorino, basil, oregano and olive oil.This establishm­ent is an offshoot of a touted New York-style pizza place in the Dumbo neighborho­od of Brooklyn, N.Y. Here in the Nutmeg State, it is located right on the outskirts of trendy downtown Mystic. In addition to pizza, they serve salads, grinders and small plates or starters like Estelle’s meatballs, stuffed artichokes, chicken wings, garlic bread with cheese, and mushroom caps loaded with breadcrumb­s, parsley, garlic, pecorino, olives and olive oil. When the weather cooperates, you can grab a table outside where you can watch the steady stream of locals heading in to pick up orders to go. Among the favorites — the shrimp pizza, with crisp whole shrimp, roasted red peppers, bacon and mozzarella. And be sure to nail the pronunciat­ion — it’s In-YATS-zio’s. — AB

42 Williams Ave., Mystic

Le Mazet

Cuisine: French Launched in September 2023 in partnershi­p with Litchfield­based Arethusa Farm Dairy, Le Mazet is a unicorn of sorts. It’s as if that hidden-gem restaurant you discovered on a trip to France and long to experience again has been transporte­d to your own dining-out turf. The open kitchen at Le Mazet continuous­ly serves French comfort food that extends from classics like steak tartare, seared tuna and savory tarts to a selection of Le Croque (grilled cheese sandwiches) before moving on to rotisserie chicken, ratatouill­e, beef Bourguigno­n, chicken coq a vin, fish dishes in parchment and more. In classic wine bar fashion, there’s also a menu of tinned fish, because Le Mazet is also a wine bar where the bottles are offered at “domaine pricing,” which means you don’t get gouged on the markup like you do at other restaurant­s. Like we said, it’s a unicorn that should be on the radar for anyone who loves French food served in a chic wine bar/bistro setting. — DPC

975 Farmington Ave., West Hartford

Love It Vegan

Cuisine: Vegan Finding a great vegan restaurant in Connecticu­t that doesn’t require a long drive used to be difficult, but the vegetarian and vegan culture has caught on to the point that there are hot spots in lots of places, including Love It Vegan in Torrington, which demands discovery. There’s so much going on here that’s wonderful, and it begins with vegan cuisine that riffs on New England comfort food in creative and delicious ways. The “clam chowder,” for example, is made

with oyster mushroom “clams,” potatoes, onions, rice-paper bacon bits, oat milk, coconut milk and chives. The “tuna melt” is chickpea “tuna” salad and cheddar cheese on toasted wheat bread. These aren’t novelties but rather breakfast and lunch fare made from plants, allowing you to eat healthier without sacrificin­g flavor. All of it is part of a mission “to create a kinder way to eat, work, and live,” by sourcing ingredient­s locally and supporting local businesses. Look for the special game nights, like a recent Dungeons and Dragons one, and special events like the Queer Community Craft Fair. — DPC

73 Main St., Torrington

Mi Bella Restaurant­e

Cuisine:

Branford has extended a warm welcome to Mi Bella Restaurant­e, which took over the quarters opposite the Green occupied for a couple of decades by beloved French bistro Le Petit Café. Roy and Winnie Ip are a tough act to follow, but Angela and Fernando Chiliquing­a, who handle the front and back of the house, respective­ly, are clearly up to the challenge. The genial couple connected in 2006 while working at Ludal’s in North Haven, Angela becoming a teacher and Fernando helming the kitchen of sibling restaurant Dalton’s in North Branford from 2008 right up until Mi Bella’s soft opening last May.Angela’s interior redesign (implemente­d by ubertalent­ed Fernando) retained a few elements like the classic pressed tin ceiling, mirrors and chandelier­s, but gained 12 seats while adopting a modern bistro look anchored by a long, black, leather banquette. Fernando’s menu is “Italian-Mediterran­ean,” but his dishes are characteri­zed by an exuberance that recalls the heady days of Roomba in early-2000s New Haven. Specials. like salmon stuffed with crabmeat, spinach and Manchego and topped with crabmeat-and-vegetable couscous, burst with color, flavor and three-dimensiona­lity. Dinner salads are compliment­ary, as are addictive garlic knots served with a bright, garlicky chimichurr­i. Desserts, such as salted caramel crème brûlée, are not to be missed. — FC

225 Montowese St., Branford

Italian-Mediterran­ean

Mykonos Kouzina

Cuisine: Greek

At some restaurant­s, the vibe

hits as soon as you walk in. At Mykonos Kouzina in Norwalk it can only be the magic islands of Greece. Even if you couldn’t tell from the name, the vibrant color scheme is unmistakab­le. Blue tables and chairs, blue cushions with white piping, zig-zag accent tiles that mimic the waves of the Aegean, and blue-striped awnings all conjure up images of white stucco houses along an azure sea.You can’t miss with mezedes (the tapas of Greece) like tender meatballs keftedakia bathed in a light tomato sauce and dotted with goat cheese or tender rice-filled packets of stuffed grape leaves in a puddle of brisk lemon sauce. Pass around a bowl of avgolemono soup to sample the lemony classic thickened with egg yolks. Whole branzino lavraki (more than enough for two) is baked with the Aegean trinity of lemon, olive oil and oregano. Tzatziki, spanakopit­akia, pastichio and gemista me kima round out the bright menu, an effective antidote for the season’s cold temps. — FW

141 Main St., Norwalk

Ore Hill

Cuisine: New American True gourmets should rejoice about the advent of Ore Hill, which was a long time in coming, with news about its arrival so fractional and fitful along the way, that uncertaint­y may still linger about its status. Let’s put that to rest. A farm-to-table, tasting menu-focused restaurant offering prix fixe and chef ’s tasting menus that change often, Ore Hill is guided by Tyler Anderson of Millwright’s fame, a perennial James Beard Best Chef Northeast nominee whose star turns include Top Chef, Chopped and Beat Bobby Flay. He’s a culinary magician known for creativity and flavors that The New York Times calls “ethereal.” Ore Hill, which also offers tea service on the second Sunday of every month with a custom menu, is the sister restaurant of Swyft tavern next door, known for its wood-fired pizzas, making Kent a mini culinary paradise. There’s one downside that deserves a warning: Securing a table seems to be a challenge, so plan well ahead and maybe give the restaurant a call instead of spending a lot of time clicking on Resy. — DPC

3 Maple St., Kent

Il Pastaficio

Cuisine: Italian Armed with an authentic-first philosophy, owner Frederico Perandin imports all his ingredient­s from his native Italy and hires chefs who have Michelin star restaurant experience. Il Pastaficio opened on the Post Road in Westport in the fall of 2022 as an Italian market with to-go creations and imported goods, expanding on an original location in Greenwich’s Cos Cob neighborho­od. About a year later, the Westport location closed for two weeks and reopened with a redesigned dine-in setup and diverse menu. The result is housemade artisanal pasta and elevated casual Italian food. The linguine al limone with caviar comes with a price tag but is exceptiona­l. Also excellent are the deconstruc­ted eggplant parm bites and fried gnocchi. Perandin also owns his own gelato line, Figo, which is sold in New York City and at his Connecticu­t restaurant­s. — JGR

135 Post Road E., Westport

SoNo Wood Fired

Cuisine: Pizza

Former Stanziato’s general manager Besar Kaba had his passion for fermenting dough and firing pies reignited while working at the popular Danbury pizzeria. At the start of 2023, he opened a spot of his own in SoNo. Kaba’s menu at SoNo Wood Fired is a blend of soul-satisfying Italian classics — many an homage to his childhood when he worked at his dad’s pizzerias and at Italian restaurant­s owned by relatives — but wood-fired, Neapolitan-style pizza is the star. Each is topped with the best ingredient­s available, and comes out light with some chew, as it should be, and with that signature leopard-spotted char.Pizza aside, there’s plenty more in terms of handmade pastas, meaty wings that get flashed in the wood oven, meatballs in a deeply flavorful red sauce with house focaccia to soak it up, and Italian seafood classics like shrimp fra diavolo and a hearty bowl of zuppa di pesce. If you choose to sit away from the oven’s heat and opt for a barstool, you’ll warm up quickly there, too, amongst a lofty selection of bourbon, local drafts, craft cocktails and a handful of different spiked espresso drinks. — AD

59 N. Main St., Norwalk

Taco Guy

Cuisine: Mexican

What started as a food truck for owner Adrian Hurtado back in 2020 actually goes back a lot further, first to his upbringing in Mexico, then in Bridgeport at his father’s successful spot, Super Taqueria Las Salsas. Hurtado, however, shied away from food service and instead took to bartending. He worked his way up the ladder, eventually landing at Mecha Noodle Bar and the prominent East Village speakeasy, Please Don’t Tell.He’d eventually go back to his taquero roots when his dad offered him a food truck. He ran with it, creating vibrant tacos on homemade blue-corn tortillas and his own hot sauces. The truck’s success led him to buy the vacant space on Wall Street (formerly Wall Street Tavern and Bar Sugo) to be an extension of the truck, serving not just tacos, but fresh ceviches, smoky, deeply flavored aguachiles, and large-format DIY tacos that come with piping hot tortillas, pickled veggies, spicy sauces and, typically, whole-roasted fish or carnitas as the protein.As for Hurtado? He’s usually up front greeting guests and behind the stick mixing some of Fairfield County’s best cocktails using fresh juices, housemade syrups, and a large selection of Mexican spirits. — AD

102 Wall St., Norwalk

Trigo Wood Fired Pizza

Cuisine: Pizza

Every new restaurant in downtown Willimanti­c brings it closer to the culinary renaissanc­e locals and visitors alike hope for. Trigo Wood Fired Pizza is the latest to join the revival. Owner and chef Patrick Griffin has enlisted the help of his brother Phil, who owns Apis Verdi Farm in nearby Lebanon and provides the restaurant with fresh produce. Seacoast Mushrooms, Liuzzi Cheese, Kindred Crossings and Mountain Dairy contribute to this locally sourced, farm-to-table bistro disguised as a pizza parlor. The “harvest to hearth” pizza made in an open kitchen is a cross between Neapolitan and New York style, with thin, crispy crust and sweet, intense scamorza cheese. Red pie choices should include the incredible housemade sausage, while the “Nightshade” white pie uses these alkaloid-rich vegetables rather than tomato sauce to achieve an incredible effect. More daring eaters might want to try their honey and spice lemon pizza, a fascinatin­g creation from this pizza newcomer. Adventurou­s cocktails like Spaghett, Paper Plane and Nothing Gold Can Stay make Trigo a player in the local speakeasy revolution, as well. — EL

744 Main St., Willimanti­c

Tümü

Cuisine: Mexican Nestled in a storefront on Fairfield’s Post Road, Tümü is part to-go restaurant and part home-decor boutique. With only a few seats for in-restaurant dining, visitors should plan on taking out but also plan on getting plenty of extra. Karla Krassin, a native of Oaxaca, Mexico, has created a menu of traditiona­l Mexican classics that are worthy of the considerab­le buzz they’ve generated. The offerings include made-to-order items and readyto-heat meals that visitors can purchase for later. During a recent visit, both sides of the menu provided some of the best Mexican food I’ve had in the state. A made-to-order vegetarian taco featured an assortment of sautéed vegetables in a warm corn tortilla that oozed with deliciousn­ess, while a chorizo burrito was equally well executed. The take-home-and-eat-later meals included guacamole and tamales, and both were excellent. Tümü is a place I’ll visit regularly going forward, and where I look forward to trying every menu item. — EO

 ?? Lisa Nichols/For Hearst Connecticu­t Media ?? Dishes and cocktails from Taco Guy in Norwalk on Dec. 7. Taco Guy was chosen as one of Connecticu­t Magazine’s top new restaurant­s for 2024.
Lisa Nichols/For Hearst Connecticu­t Media Dishes and cocktails from Taco Guy in Norwalk on Dec. 7. Taco Guy was chosen as one of Connecticu­t Magazine’s top new restaurant­s for 2024.
 ?? ?? Nalini Srinivasan, Owner pictured in the dining room at The Curry Queen in Old Saybrook on Aug. 29.
Nalini Srinivasan, Owner pictured in the dining room at The Curry Queen in Old Saybrook on Aug. 29.
 ?? Brian A. Pounds/Hearst Connecticu­t Media ?? Chef Chandramoh­an Krishnasam­y runs the kitchen at Athithi Indian Cuisine, celebratin­g the one-year anniversar­y at their Danbury Road location in Wilton on Dec. 22.
Brian A. Pounds/Hearst Connecticu­t Media Chef Chandramoh­an Krishnasam­y runs the kitchen at Athithi Indian Cuisine, celebratin­g the one-year anniversar­y at their Danbury Road location in Wilton on Dec. 22.
 ?? Lisa Nichols for Hearst Connecticu­t Media ?? Costata di Manzo con Burro Tartufato and other dishes from Geppetto Osteria e Bisteccher­ia in Torrington on Dec. 15.
Lisa Nichols for Hearst Connecticu­t Media Costata di Manzo con Burro Tartufato and other dishes from Geppetto Osteria e Bisteccher­ia in Torrington on Dec. 15.
 ?? Arnold Gold/Hearst Connecticu­t Media ?? Negitoro Bluefin Tuna handrolls, left, and Madai handrolls containing Red Snapper are photograph­ed at the newly opened Hachiroku Handroll Bar & Tapas on State Street in New Haven on April 12.
Arnold Gold/Hearst Connecticu­t Media Negitoro Bluefin Tuna handrolls, left, and Madai handrolls containing Red Snapper are photograph­ed at the newly opened Hachiroku Handroll Bar & Tapas on State Street in New Haven on April 12.
 ?? Marquis Goodwin/GoNation ?? Greer Southern Table at 7 River St. in Norwalk.
Marquis Goodwin/GoNation Greer Southern Table at 7 River St. in Norwalk.
 ?? Lisa Nichols/For Hearst Connecticu­t Media ?? Flautas form Tümü in Fairfield on Dec. 6.
Lisa Nichols/For Hearst Connecticu­t Media Flautas form Tümü in Fairfield on Dec. 6.
 ?? ?? The open kitchen at Esh extends all the way across the dining room.
The open kitchen at Esh extends all the way across the dining room.

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