Judge Carroll's book reads:
From toddler days on through college years, much of the time
I spent at my maternal grandparents' house was on the golf course at the Redmont Country Club (in Red Bay,
Alabama). My grandfather, Pappy, was a pretty decent golfer; when it came to long drives, however, I was more interested in the cart than the club. But my golf course memories actually have very little to do with golf, because most of that time we were fishing. There's no telling how many hours my brother and I spent out there with Pappy and Ma-Manie, our great-grandmother, who absolutely loved to fish. In the early days we fished on the lakes for bream, maybe some bass.Later, they built another lake, and it was there that I first came across the catfish.
Generally, Pappy did all the hands-on work once Younger Brother and I reeled them in he didn't want us to get cut by the fins, and that was perfectly fine by us. Once they were cleaned (again, Pappy), Granny took over and handled the frying: usually whole fish coated in cornmeal and scored into finger-sized segments. Oh, and she cooked it in the same oil every time. (Fun fact: Granny passed away in 2013, and she had probably not fried fish since sometime shortly after Y2K. Not long ago, after much wondering aloud about where it may have ended up, we found her cast iron pot in a corner of her outside kitchen…still full of grease. We opted not to fry in it.)
Of course this was long before aquaculture (a fancy word for catfish farming) became one of Mississippi's top five agricultural products (netstate.com). And long before I was introduced to Taylor Grocery and some of the fine folks from Simmons Catfish. Over the past few years, thanks to the Southern Foodways Alliance Symposium, those introductions have turned into friendships.
Okay, I don't know if you can have a friendship with a catfish joint, but I do like spending time with it. Or in it, as the case may be. Son even had some of his senior pictures made there. In all the years I've gone to the SFA Symposium, we've been bussed out to Taylor for the Friday evening meal. At first it was just a big plate of fresh-fried catfish with all the trimmings, and that was enough. For folks like me who attended the Ole Alma Mater, it is a nostalgic trip (made even more so by the school bus style of carpooling.) For those coming from out of town, out of state, and outside of the South, it provides a true taste of an Oxford institution. In the past few years, however, the organizers have upped the ante, adding a couple of appetizer stations outside the restaurant.
I'm not talking about fried cheese and wings here, people. Not that kind of appetizer. These are special. The chefs who are invited to make these have essentially one guideline: they have to use the Simmons Catfish Delacata cut. I've talked about this cut before, but let's review. The Delacata is a deep-skinned filet cut from the center, thickest part of the fish. It's skinless, boneless, hand-trimmed, and mild in flavor - sort of the filet mignon of the catfish. Locally, Chef Jay Yates features it at the Veranda.
Lis Hernandez, Chef-Owner of Arepa Mia in Atlanta, was manning the first station we came to. Again, a quick review. An arepa is a sandwich made from a corn cake that is split and stuffed with all kinds of deliciousness. Chef Lis is originally from Venezuela, where she learned to make arepas from her mom. A few years ago she served us breakfast arepas at the symposium, and I fell in love. Just this year I was able to make it to one of her two Arepa Mia restaurants in Atlanta. I'm a big fan. On this night she made Delacata arepas, with a piece of the fried fish, jalapeno pico, cilantro sauce, lettuce and tomato. Ours came right off the grill, piping hot and could have almost served as a small meal of its own. That didn't stop me of course, and I didn't leave a single crumb.
Up on the porch, Chef Jesus Carmona from Tacos Mariachi in Dallas, was dishing out Delacata tostadas. I haven't been to Dallas in a few years, but after taking a look at his menu, I think a trip may be in order. He offers all the normal fillings like chicken, pork, steak, and tongue. For the more daring, there are also tacos with grilled marinated octopus and huitlacoche (Mexican corn truffle, aka corn smut). I also noted mole fries and pork chicharron-crusted cod. I already know my order. For Symposium attendees he grilled the Delacata and dressed it with avocado crema, a dab of pico-like relish, and a generous portion of cilantro. It was crunchy, creamy, and salty all in one great bite.
For those who travel, particularly those who eat while you travel - or like me, those who travel to eat - consider this column a travel guide. East to Atlanta for arepas, West to Dallas for all manner of tacos, north to Oxford for catfish and the trimmings, and south of the border to see where El Sur Latino was born. And please save a seat for me.
The family names of Redus and Rosseau were very prominent and good names in Oktibbeha County. According to Judge Carroll's history of the county, the Redus Family Blewitt S. Redus was in the War Between the States, Thomas Redus was marshal, R. Redus was mayor in 1890, Hartness and Redus Drug Store. In the Rosseau Family, W. J. Rosseau was clerk in 1877, Rosseau Store in1875, H. K. Rosseau was marshal 1912 and on..
Marshals in Oktibbeha County were: 1891-1900 John Henry, 1900 T. W. Perkins, 1901-1909 John S. Saunders, 1909-12 and Herris Maxwell, 1912-on H. K. Redus.
In 1897, R. K. Wier established the first telephone system in the county. His lines served both the residences and places of business in Starkville, and many homes and stores in the county. The exchange was in the Rosseau residence on Main Street (today across the street from the library). Mrs. Rosseau had charge of the telephone service The service, especially in the county was almost as good as the service of the present system. In 1905, Wier sold his equipment to the Bell Telephone Company.
With this family background the Columbus Dispatch in September 19, 1920 printed the following article.
Redus gets a life term. Case was hard fought throughout; excited much interest here and Oktibbeha.
At eight o'clock last night the jury in the Henry Redus case brought in a verdict of guilty. The jury could not agree on a verdict and Judge T. I. Lamb imposed the life sentence. The jury deliberated less than two hours.
The fate of Henry Redus charged with the murder of Town Marshall H. K. Rosseau, of Starkville, was in the hands of a jury of his peers last night. The case, which had accepted the circuit court since Thursday morning was argued yesterday afternoon by four attorneys and went to the jury just before six o'clock.
The Redus trial was changed to this venue from Oktibbeha County.
Yesterday afternoon, Redus went on the stand in his own defense and made a sweeping defense in every vital factor in the prosecution's attack. He stuck to his plea of selfdefense. They followed him to his cabin on a back street in Starkville. It was dark when the officer and Deputy sheriff McKee approached him in an effort to arrest him. He told them to stop and not to come on him and they advanced he said and he fired the shot.
Redus' home was raided in December and at the time of the killing he was charged with making whiskey.
Judge Carroll was a witness for the defense but was not placed on the stand.
The widow, Mrs. H. K. Rosseau sat throughout the trial and wept as various witnesses and lawyers referred to the tragic death.
Redus is a young man and about 36 years of age. He is single and rather handsome. He was perfectly calm and composed while relating the story of the tragedy in which he played the leading role. His steadfastly denied that he knew the men who approached him on the street when the killing occurred and he maintained through that he shot in defense of his own life.
The other officers are all natives of the county and members of prominent families. H. K. Roseau met a very untimely death in the discharge of duty. One night in March 1920, while trying to arrest Henry Redus, Redus shot and killed him. Redus got a change of venue to Lowndes County; the jury, however, found him guilty and the court sentenved him to penitentiary for life. (A few years later, the Governor gave Redus a pardon.