Liv­ing Spa­ces

Sun Sentinel Broward Edition - Homespot - Broward East - - FRONT PAGE - For more in­for­ma­tion, con­tact Kathryn We­ber through her web­site, RedLo­tusLet­ter.com. By Kathryn We­ber

It’s warm,

it’s charm­ing and it’s show­ing up ev­ery­where from bed­rooms to kitchens. Com­monly seen on HGTV’s de­sign show “Fixer Up­per,” shiplap has en­joyed a new resur­gence for the in­stant char­ac­ter and charm it can bring to your home. If wall­pa­per makes you yawn and you’re ready for some­thing new on your walls, shiplap might be your an­swer. The dif­fer­ence

Shiplap and tongue-and-groove are two types of wood pan­el­ing that of­ten are con­fused with each other. Tech­ni­cally, shiplap is a type of wood pan­el­ing that is fit one board on top of an­other with a small gap. Tongue-and-groove pan­el­ing is cut so that each piece is in­ter­lock­ing. But which­ever you choose, both give that same warm char­ac­ter so of­ten seen in beach and coun­try-style homes.

Be­sides their tech­ni­cal dif­fer­ences, tongue-and-groove and shiplap pan­el­ing also have a sig­nif­i­cant price dif­fer­ence. Tongue-and-groove pan­el­ing can cost as much as $8 or more per in­di­vid­ual strip, whereas 8-inch pan­els are con­sid­er­ably less ex­pen­sive. If you’re handy and have a ta­ble saw, a smooth half-inch birch ply­wood or sanded pine can be ripped into strips 8 inches wide and give you a sig­nif­i­cant price sav­ings. The in­stal­la­tion

If you hire a car­pen­ter, in­stalling shiplap – re­gard­less of the type used – will make your project run high on la­bor costs alone. Even a small room will add up quickly. But, if you can make sim­ple cuts, in­stalling shiplap can make for a ter­rific week­end project. Be­fore start­ing your project, be sure to take out all mold­ing around doors, win­dows, base­boards and any crown mold­ing.

Next, make sure to mark the studs on your wall for nail­ing. If you opt to use tongue-and-groove pan­el­ing, you can be­gin ap­ply­ing it di­rectly to the walls. But if you choose to use boards or ply­wood strips, you may want to paint your walls with the same shade of paint you’ll be paint­ing your shiplapped walls. This is so that the color of the walls un­der­neath won’t show through the small gaps be­tween pan­els.

To keep your boards a con­sis­tent width apart when ap­ply­ing to the walls, use a jig such as a yard­stick to keep the boards evenly spaced. Us­ing an air-nailer with fin­ish­ing nails will make the job go quickly and look nice. The big fin­ish

To cre­ate a fin­ished look, try to miter the board edges where they meet on wall cor­ners, oth­er­wise you’ll need to use a cap mold­ing to cover where the edges meet. Af­ter in­stal­la­tion, putty and sand nail holes. If paint­ing, cover with a coat of paint primer first; then paint.

Does shiplap have to be painted white? Ab­so­lutely not. Con­sider a soft dove grey, a pale beige or an ivory shade for some­thing un­ex­pected. For a touch of na­ture, stain your new shiplapped walls with your fa­vorite color stain. Your new shiplap will bring in­stant charm and char­ac­ter to your rooms.

Whether you’re stain­ing or paint­ing your shiplap, it will add in­stant char­ac­ter to the room.

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