Whyyou need to learn this

We’ve discussed previously and at length the need to adhere like Scotch tape to the rigid principles of jingoistic Amerkinism. Sure, slaw’s origins are not in this country (not unlike most of ours), but you’d still be hard-pressed to find a family barbecue in America without at least one bowl brimming with the stuff. Without slaw, it’s just not a barbecue; it’s just a bunch ofwoebegonewerewolves wishing formore napkins. kohlrabi, collards, Border collies— it’s all right there.

That’s right: Come for the slaw. Stay for the lexicological bloviations.

Now, when most of us think of coleslaw, we’re thinking of shredded (or chiffonade of ) cabbage dressed with a creamymayonnaise dressing. (Unless you’re fromNorth Carolina, in which case, your cabbage might be diced and tossed with a vinegar-based dressing.)

Cabbage aside, though, ifwe recall that the “slaw” means “salad,” our eyes are nowopen to a wholeworld of possibilities. Anything you can make into a salad, you can make into a slaw. In fact, what even is the difference?

Well, I’m noRex Tillerson*, but, I’d say that while all slaws are salads, not all salads are slaws. For one thing, salad ingredients can come in all shapes and sizes, but slaw ingredients generally are shredded or minced. Also, show of hands: Howmany of you have ordered a salad and asked for the dressing on the side? slaws are generally dressed.

If youwant to make a slawthen, all you have to do is get some very fresh vegetables (It’s farmers market season, kids!!!), render them into small bits, coat them lightly with a delicious dressing and, asmy fine young son used to bellowon the tennis court: “Blammo!” We have achieved slaw. Oneword about that “rendering into small bits” part: If you’re going to cut the ingredients by hand, julienne or small dice are nice sizes. Alternately, you can run everything over a box grater or through the shredding attachment on your food processor. “Large holes or small,” I can hear your fretting fromhere. Remember, this iswhy your ancestors came here fromthose other oppressive, propergrater-hole-size-demanding countries. Like Canada. If you’re using vegetables like broccoli or cauliflower, break them into the smallest florets you can manage.

Generally speaking, slaws are defined by their main ingredient or ingredients. I tend not to usemore than three, only because it takes up too much space on the menu. Think broccoli, raisin and carrot, or carrot, snow pea and radish, or radish, jicama and apple, or apple, fennel and cabbage, or cabbage, carrot and scallion, or scallion, edamame and bacon. OK, this is getting nutsy, fast. But, see what I’m doing? I’m just riffing on ingredients that taste good raw(except the bacon), then putting them together all crazylike. Or, you can fancy up your basic coleslawby combining your cabbage with just about anything else.

Now, let’s get some ideas for dressings. All of the following are acid-based (vinegar, citrus), but they also can be stirred into mayonnaise for a creamier slaw. Also, remember that everything needs salt to taste:

Asian-style 1: Equal parts soy sauce, rice wine vinegar, sesame oil, optional brown sugar; garlic, ginger, sesame seeds and/orwasabi paste to taste.

Asian-style 2: Two parts lime juice to one part each fish sauce, brown sugar, optional peanuts or peanut butter; garlic, cilantro, mint and salt to taste.

South American (think “chimichurri”): Equal parts cilantro and parsley finely chopped with garlic to taste; stir into 2-to-1 blend of extra-virgin olive oil and sherry or red wine vinegar; oregano and red pepper flakes to taste.

Indian-style: Equal parts lime juice, oil, shredded coconut, peanuts and cilantro; garammasala and a pinch of turmeric to taste.

North Carolina (Piedmont): Equal parts ketchup, cider vinegar and sugar; black pepper and optional hot sauce or cayenne pepper to taste.

Now, go make some slaw.

*If anyone can explain this joke tome, I’m listening.

James P. DeWan is a culinary instructor atKendallCollege in Chicago.