A Sardinian classic
Q. We recently ate at Sardinia Enoteca Ristorante’s newest location in Delray Beach. Their spaghetti bottarga di muggine is made with mullet and is simply out of this world. As this is not a typical menu item for this area would it be possible for you to contact the owners and get this recipe? — Ilene Dishman, Boca Raton
A. For months, Antonio Gallo and Pietro Vardeu searched for the perfect spot for the second location of Sardinia Enoteca Ristorante (3035 S. Federal Highway, Delray Beach, 561-332-3406, sardinia-ristorante.com) before settling in Delray this past October. They wanted a growing area with a good market for the Italian specialties the partners have served in Miami for 12 years. Gallo takes care of the front of the house while Vardeu, a native of Sardinia, commands the kitchens. Vardeu’s nephew, Roberto Basile, moved from Sardinia in 2012 to work at the Miami restaurant after cooking 20 years in hotels and resorts on the island. Under Vardeu’s watchful eye, Basile creates the traditional dishes they grew up eating.
“Bottarga is a very classic dish in Sardinia, but you don’t see it here so much,” Gallo says. “I think this is why it is so popular. Because once you try it you love it.”
Bottarga is salted, cured roe from gray mullet or bluefin tuna. The golden colored eggs, traditionally grated and sprinkled over pasta dishes, adds a savory layer of briny, sea-soaked flavor.
For those wanting to try this newcomer you may be enticed with the weekend Veuve Clicquot champagne brunch or a new promotion on Monday nights offering 50 percent off menu items. Treat yourself on Tuesdays with 40 percent off wine bottles up to $200 or daily happy hour food and drink specials at the bar only.
Q. I had the most wonderful soup at the Kravis Center Bistro. It was a mushroom brie soup. I’ve never had that combination before and it was delicious. I was told that the caterer for the bistro is The Breakers. Can you possibly get the recipe for me? I’m sure that it has 1,000 calories, but it’s worth it. — Eleanor Yura, Lake Worth
A The Breakers is the in-house caterer for the Raymond F. Kravis Center for the Performing Arts (701 Okeechobee Blvd, West Palm Beach, 561-832-7469, kravis.org) and offers casual dining at Bistro Teatro on the mezzanine level lobby during performances. The bistro opens 90 minutes prior to shows and serves cocktails and light meals — salads, soups, sandwiches.
While I wasn’t able to coerce the recipe out of the chef, I have a substitute recipe in my own arsenal. It’s a basic mushroom soup recipe, but I added cream for a classic rendition and cheese to fill your request, which are the main culprits for the high calorie count.
Yes, it’s a splurge. But, you can reduce that number by cutting oil and/or butter, cream and cheese in half or simply eat half the serving size.
You may also want to make subtle changes to suit your own tastes, Eleanor. For example, I love tarragon, especially with mushrooms, but you may not. What about thyme or sage? Feel free to substitute chicken stock in place of vegetable. Try using different varieties of mushrooms — button, cremini, shiitake — or a mix of whatever wild mushrooms are available at your market.
After simmering leave the soup full of texture or puree, using a stick or countertop blender, to a smooth, velvety consistency. So many choices to enjoy.