Penne alla vodka stirs memories
Q. I’ve been trying to figure out Capriccio’s Penne alla vodka recipe for years with no luck. I used to live in South Florida but have been in New York for a few years. I had my rehearsal dinner at Capriccio’s in 2011 and that is when I fell in love with it. If you could help in any way that would be amazing. — Jacqulyn Barrett, Baiting Hollow, N.Y.
A. This pasta dish must have made quite an impression on you, Jacqulyn. Seven years later, Chef Carlos Vaquerano at Capriccio’s Ristorante (2424 N. University Drive, Pembroke Pines; 954-432-7001; capriccios.net) continues to satiate his guests with the same Penne alla vodka recipe that has been served at the restaurant since Gianpiero and Karen Cangelosi opened their doors in 1987.
And why would they change the recipe when it’s been a popular menu choice ever since? Vaquerano, a 25-year veteran employee explained, “People love the creamy, pink sauce. We get a lot of requests for this pasta for private parties and banquets. In the restaurant guests usually order the penne with chicken or shrimp.” Although the Penne alla vodka isn’t listed on their regular menu, it is always available on request. The vodka sauce is also paired on the menu with homemade potato gnocchi, lobster ravioli and penne mare e monte, a pasta dish served with baby shrimp and mushrooms.
You may be familiar with the Cangelosis’ name from their sister restaurant, Tarantella Ristorante Pizzeria (1755 Bell Tower Lane, Weston; 954-349-3004; tarantellas.net). The couple, who are partners in life and business, have been busy working on their latest venture, Capriccio Eatery and Banquet. The 10,000-square foot space, located next door to Capriccio’s Ristorante, will feature a banquet hall to accommodate private parties of up to 140 people and a fast-casual concept and market. The Eatery will offer Italian style breakfast, lunch and dinner. Market shelves will be stocked with Italian specialty products, wines and prepared meals to go. The anticipated opening is mid-May.
Q. Twice a year my husband and I go Las Vegas and always enjoy a lunch date at the Wynn Country Club that starts with sweet corn soup. It is vegetarian, light and healthy. Last year we asked for the recipe and the waitress was kind enough to present it to us before we left. Somehow in our travels back home we lost it. The Country Club is closing and renovating for a new development project. Will you please see if you can help us? — Robin Banks, Fort Lauderdale
A. The PR team at the Wynn declined to provide the sweet corn soup recipe, but since we’re in the middle of corn season I couldn’t stop there. I’m hoping that a substitute Sweet summer corn soup recipe from Chef Gavin Kaysen will be just as, if not more, enjoyable.
Kaysen cut his chops in notable kitchens in California, Switzerland and London. In 2007, he joined Daniel Boulud’s team in New York City, overseeing Cafe Boulud in Palm Beach, Toronto and New York City. In 2007, Kaysen was named by Food & Wine magazine as one of the top 10 “Best New Chefs” and won a James Beard Foundation Award for Rising Star Chef of the Year the following year. Kaysen returned to his roots in 2014 to open Spoon and Stable, a restaurant in his hometown of Minneapolis that focuses on Midwest seasonality. The French bistro and bakery Bellecour, in Wayzata, Minn., followed in 2017.
Perhaps part of the appeal of Wynn’s version is their ceremonious tableside pouring from a decorative copper kettle. Or maybe it’s a distinct flavor from “latesummer herbs.” This is where you may have to experiment to get an exact match, Robin. I think tarragon would be a lovely start. If that’s not for you try thyme, dill, basil or cilantro.
What I like about Kaysen’s recipe is that he enriches the stock with corn cobs that intensifies the corn flavor. There is also little cream, and if you want to reduce the calorie count, cut the butter in half, lose the olive oil drizzle and use 1 tablespoon to sauté corn garnish. One review points out Wynn’s version tastes like “buttered corn,” so it depends on what you’re going for in the end.