A distilled itinerary of Scotland

When Iwas in Scotland recently updatingmy guidebook, I came to a sobering conclusion— this is a land of booze geeks. Some ofmy favorite discoveries have been inviting whisky bars and historic distilleries, run by people evangelical about Scotland’s favorite beverage. When it rains— as it often does— the showers elicit a cheery “That’s tomorrow’s whisky!” fromthe locals.

Scotch whiskies come in two broad types: “single malt,” meaning that the bottle comes froma single batch made by a single distiller; and “blends,” which master blenders mix and match fromvarious whiskies into a perfect punch of booze. While single malts get the most attention, blended varieties represent 90 percent of all whisky sales.

Single-malt whisky— just made ofwater, malted barley and yeast— is most influenced by three things: whether the malt is peatsmoked; the shape of the stills; and the composition of the casks. But local climate can also play a role; some distilleries in the Scottish isles tout the salty notes of their whiskies, as the sea air permeates their casks.

Tasting whisky is like tasting wine; you’ll use all your senses. First, swirl the whisky in the glass and observe its color and “legs” — the trail left by the liquid as it runs back down the side of the glass (quick, thin legs indicate light, young whisky; slow, thick legs mean it’s a heavier and older one). Then take a deep sniff— do you smell smoke and peat? And finally, taste it (sip!). What’s the dominant first punch? The smooth middle? The “finish”? Swish it around and let your gums taste it, too.

At one tastingmy guide poured a little springwater intomy glass. Squinting into the glass, he coached me along: “Look at the impurities gathering in a happy little pool there on top. Thewater is like a spring rain on a garden— it brings out the character, the personality.” Sipping whisky with this expert, I sawhowScotland’s national drink can become, as they’re fond of saying, “a very good friend.”

Regardless of whether you like this stuff, a highlight of a visit to Scotland is touring a distillery— and you can choose frommore than 100. Onmy last visit, I toured a half-dozen of them— from the Speyside region (where the popular Glenfiddich and Glenlivet are produced) to the remote and intimate Talisker Distillery (on the Isle of Skye).

Each region has its unique qualities. The Lowlands, around Edinburgh, produce light and refreshing whiskies— more likely to be taken as an aperitif. Whiskies fromthe Highlands and Islands range from floral and sweet (vanilla or honey) to smoky (peaty) and robust.

Southeast of Inverness, Speyside is home to half of all Scottish distilleries— including Glenfiddich, Scotland’s top-selling single-malt whisky. One highlight is the Speyside Cooperage, where I gained an appreciation of the role of oak in the distilling

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Qprocess and got towatch as the busy coopers made whisky casks.

Mellowand fruity, Speyside whiskies can be the most accessible for beginners. Glenfiddich— with a name that means “Valley of the Deer” (hence the logo) — boasts a sprawling but charming factory offering excellent tours and extensive tasting sessions. It’s rare to find a distillery in the middle of a town, but seaside Oban grew up around one. With the success of its whisky, the town enjoyed an invigorating confidence, optimism, and, in 1811, a royal charter. The 200-year-old distillery produces more than 25,000 liters aweek and exports much of that to the U.S. The distillery offers serious (and fragrant) one-hour tours explaining the process fromstart to finish, with two smooth samples of their signature product. I found that Oban whisky is moderately smoky (“peaty”) and characterized by notes of sea salt, citrus and honey.

Talisker, an institution on the Isle of Skye, has been distilling here since 1830. This venerable distillery is situated at the base of a hill with 14 springs, and at the edge of a sea loch— making it easier to ship ingredients in andwhisky out. You’ll sniff both peated and unpeated grains; see the big mash tuns, washbacks and stills; and sample a wee dramat the end. (From the Gaelicword for “drink,” a dram isn’t necessarily a fixed amount— it’s simply a small slug.) Island whisky tends to be smokier than mainland whisky due to the amount of peat smoke used during malting. Taliskerworkers describe theirs as “medium smoky,” with peppery, floral and vanilla notes.

Whisky is high on the experience list for most visitors to Scotland— even for teetotalers. As you sample the national drink, consider howunderstanding “food patriotism” here in Scotland— or in any corner of theworld— brings out the fun and fascinating facets of each place.

Rick Steves (

writes European travel guidebooks and hosts travel shows on public television and public radio. Email him at

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