Sun Sentinel Broward Edition

Vodka — made from milk? Yes.

- By Brandy Gonsoulin Chicago Tribune BountyHunt­er wine.com

Wheat, potatoes, even grapes are used to make vodka — but milk?

While the idea of making vodka from milk might seem absurd, using milk to produce alcohol is a longstandi­ng tradition among nomadic Siberians, among whom milk was the only source of sugar available. In Tuva, a Russian Republic in southern Siberia, milk vodka is traditiona­lly known as araka.

Now, thanks to an English dairy farmer, milk vodka is available in the United States — and it’s just as clear as the rest of them.

Black Cow Pure Milk Vodka is the brainchild of Jason Barber, a sixthgener­ation member of the renowned Barber cheese family, and friend Paul Archard. It was inspired by a conversati­on over a glass of homemade eau de vie (fruit brandy) with a Polish friend. After sampling the homemade brandy (to some disapprova­l it seems), the friend wrinkled his nose and said, “You know you can make good drink from milk.” Barber’s herd of 250 grass-fed dairy cows stared back at them.

Unlike the convention­al method of distilling vodka from grains or potatoes and blending it with water, Black Cow Vodka starts and ends with whey, the watery byproduct of the cheesemaki­ng process. The whey is fermented with a unique yeast that can survive the lactic environmen­t, then distilled through a custombuil­t Arnold Holstein copper pot and triple filtered.

The lack of water in the distillati­on process gives the vodka a naturally low mineral content. This produces a softer more refined spirit with a unique creamy character, says Archard, a contrast to the flintier flavor profiles of many vodkas that use mineral-rich hard spring water.

Archard says the vodka can support the most delicate flavors, making “simple, low- or no-sugar cocktails taste brighter and more vivid.” A favorite at the Dorset distillery is its simple version of an espresso martini: a shot of Lavazza espresso, double Black Cow, and maple syrup to sweeten to taste, shaken hard and served in a martini glass.

Black Cow Vodka launched in 2012 in England and touched down in the states in California in 2016 via Wine Warehouse. It has plans for additional distributi­on in New York, Washington and Chicago this fall. Los Angeles bartenders such as Kim Stodel at Providence, known for his sustainabl­e, zero-waste bar program, and chef Neal Fraser and bar director Tobin Shea at Redbird LA are already picking up on it.

Not only is Black Cow Vodka challengin­g the common conception of vodka-making, it’s taken an underutili­zed byproduct (whey) and upcycled it into a premium spirit, making it a vodka that you can also venture to call sustainabl­e.

Which is something to be udderly happy about. Find it: Black Cow can be found at

or shipped nationwide out of Los Angeles from either Mel & Rose or Mission Wine and Spirits.

Brandy Gonsoulin is a freelance writer.

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from United States