Fried rice from the pantry

Crispy fried rice with asparagus and radishes

rice with whatever leftovers you have, and add fresh or frozen ingredients if you want.

When microwaved leftovers trigger flashbacks to sad desk lunches, but aspirational coronavirus cooking feels like too much work, you might try what’s become my go-to pandemic pantry nonrecipe for crispy fried rice.

A hidden golden crust distinguishes this technique that’s far easier than even nontraditional fried rice and grants you permission to stop trying to recreate your favorite restaurant’s dish.

Rice cookers have eliminated scorched rice, the toasted layer left behind in a cooking pot. That is unless it’s created with intent. Every rice culture shares a variation, from Chinese claypot rice to Korean dolsot bibimbap to Spanish paella socarrat to prized Persian tahdig.

A nutty hard bite as satisfying as a kettle potato chip or crackling pork rind transforms leftovers simply layered over rice. Use a nonstick pan or well-seasoned cast iron, and enough oil to barely coat the bottom, a ratio of

Prep:

bunch red radishes with green tops, about 1 pound, halved as needed to bite size cups cooked rice, hot or cold teaspoon freshly ground black pepper tablespoon soy sauce

Butter, plus lemon or white rice vinegar about 1 tablespoon oil to 2 cups cooked rice. Top with whatever leftovers you have, and add fresh or

Cook: 15 to 20 minutes 1. Soak

Makes: 2. In a cold wok, skillet or wide-bottomed saucepan, add oil, then swirl to coat. Add rice, then red radish roots and asparagus stems. Season with half of the pepper and salt to taste. Cover, then turn heat on medium-high. Cook until you hear sizzling and smell rice toasting, about 5 minutes.

3. Turn

Nutrition information per serving (for 6 servings): 298 calories, 7 g fat, 1 g saturated fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 51 g carbohydrates, 3 g sugar, 7 g protein, 610 mg sodium, 3 g fiber

frozen ingredients if you want.

In our heightened waste not, want not moment,

remember to reward yourself that first bite of crunchy crust, which always belongs to the cook.