Sun Sentinel Broward Edition

The key to perfect pan-seared salmon

- America’s Test Kitchen

Pan-searing salmon sounds straightfo­rward: Just add a little oil to a nonstick pan, get it good and hot, season a couple of fillets and cook them until they’re cooked through and nicely browned on the exterior but still pink on the inside, right?

There are two issues with this technique: The fish cooks unevenly, and the exteriors of the fillets end up more tough than crisp.

We knew we could do better, so we set out to create a simple recipe that took advantage of the intense heat of the skillet to produce a golden-brown, ultra-crisp crust on salmon fillets while keeping their interiors moist.

The solution to the dryness problem was relatively easy: salt. We salt and brine meat all the time, and both techniques apply just as well to fish.

Beyond seasoning the flesh, the salt also helps keep it moist.

A 15-minute brine did both, and as long as we patted the fillets dry with paper towels before cooking, we found that the treatment didn’t significan­tly inhibit browning.

To make sure the fish browned nicely and cooked evenly, we started skin-on fillets in a cold pan and then turned on the heat. This allowed the fish to cook through gently as the pan slowly came up to temperatur­e.

We then flipped the fillets over after the skillet was good and hot, so they could form a crust and finish cooking through. And the skin shed enough fat as it cooked that we were able to cook the fish without needing to add a single drop of oil to the pan.

This salmon was excellent with just a squirt of lemon, but we also whipped up a mango-mint salsa to go along with it.

The salsa’s bright flavors balanced the salmon’s richness, and it added mere minutes to this quick, weeknight meal.

Makes:

For the salmon:

Pepper

For the salsa: shallot, minced tablespoon­s chopped fresh mint tablespoon extra-virgin teaspoon salt 1. Dissolve 3. Using

Recipe notes: oil

 ?? CARL TREMBLAY/ AMERICA’S TEST KITCHEN 4 1 1 3 2 1 1 1 ?? The salsa’s bright flavors balance the salmon’s richness.
Kosher salt jalapeño chile, stemmed, seeds reserved, and minced
CARL TREMBLAY/ AMERICA’S TEST KITCHEN 4 1 1 3 2 1 1 1 The salsa’s bright flavors balance the salmon’s richness. Kosher salt jalapeño chile, stemmed, seeds reserved, and minced

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