A dozen wines for a transitional season
Itwasn’t much of a summer, I’m afraid.
The empty ballparks, the missing actors and musicians, the fraught travel, the social distancing— little was there to divert attention momentarily fromthe pitiless price of the COVID-19 pandemic and the destruction caused by climate change.
At least fresh summer fruits and vegetableswere bountiful. But nowthat gift is nearing its end. If you’re likeme, you’ve been eating tomatoes like crazy, and have maybe even considered preserving some for the winter.
As summer segues into autumn, the taste for wine begins a seasonal transition, too. It’s never as simple as white wines in the heat, reds in the cold. Though that formula at least has some logic to it.
Whites and rosés are often the best choices for fresh vegetable preparations and other seasonal dishes. As theweather cools and the oven is revved up once more, many of the roasts, stews and bean dishes will be better suited to reds. And, for wines of all colors, we’ll be looking for a little more body and weight.
Shopping online atNew York City retail stores, I found a dozen wines that are great for this transitional season. I picked more reds than whites, though most of the reds are still rather light-bodied.
For this roundup, I restrictedmyself to bottles costing $20 to $30.
These wines— one pétillant naturel, one rosé, two whites and eight reds, presented in no particular order— all have a few things in common: They are refreshing, delicious, light enough for end-ofsummer dining and substantial enough to take us into fall.
Montenidoli; Vernaccia
di San Gimignano Fiore 2018; $26.99
Vernaccia di San Gimignano is one of those Italian whites that got a bad name in the old days of careless overproduction. But when made conscientiously, the wines befit a storied history that goes back at least to the 13th century. This wine, made byMontenidoli fromorganically grown grapes, is crisp, with floral and citrus aromas and flavors. It’s more concentrated than you might expect, and is just right for end-of-season caprese salads, fresh tomato sauces and pestos.
Scar of the Sea; Santa Barbara County Pinot Noir 2018; $27.99
Scar of the Sea, run by the husband-and-wife team Mikey and Gina Giugni, makes an array of wines from the Central Coast of California aswell as a bunch of ciders. This bottle is an excellent introduction to the style: savory and restrained, floral, lightly fruity and resolutely expressive. It’s perfect for when theweather cools enough roast a chicken.
Domaine Ilarria; IrouléguyRosé 2019; $25.99
Whosaid you shouldn’t drink rosé after LaborDay? Even though this is a longtime favorite rosé, I’m still surprised by its quality each time I open a bottle. It’s much darker than a typical French rosé, more the ruby color of a Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo, made of tannat and cabernet franc grown in schist. The flavor is elemental, like something you might imagine concocted fromrocks and blood, which, believeme, is a great thing. Peio Espil, the proprietor of Ilarria, practices hands-off farming, andworks naturally. The wines get better and better.
Luis Seabra; Douro Xisto Ilimitado 2018; $26
The evolution of the Douro Valley of Portugal, famed for centuries for its fortified port wines, has been fascinating towatch. With a diminishing market for port, the region has produced more and more tablewines, and they have become finer and more evocative. LXisto Ilimitado is made with a typical blend of red port grapes grown in schist soils. It’s savory, complex, aromatic and thoroughly delicious.
Castro Candaz; Ribeira SacraMencía 2017; $22.99
Castro Candaz is one of the many projects of Raúl Pérez, one of Spain’s leading itinerant winemakers, who produces gems from all over the country and beyond. For Castro Candaz, Pérez, in partnership with another winemaker, RodrigoMéndez, focuses on mencía grapes fromthe Chantada region of Ribeira Sacra inGalicia, an area where the hills aremore sandy than is typical in the slate-rich Ribeira Sacra. It’s a concentrated, earthy wine, with plenty of minerality.
DomaineMaestracci; Corse Calvi E Prove 2016; $24.99
Since Camille-Anaïs Raoust took over this estate in 2012 from her father, Michel Raoust, she has pushed to farm biodynamically and has improved the winemaking. It’s situated in the Calvi region in the northern part of Corsica, where the leading red grape is niellucciu, or sangiovese. In the south, the leading red grape is sciaccarellu, or mammolo, a lesser known Tuscan grape generally used for blending. This red combines both grapes, along with grenache and syrah, to create a gorgeous wine that is floral, focused, lightly tannic and thoroughly Corsican.
Domaine de la Pépière; Muscadet Sèvre-etMaine Château Thébaud 2014; $27.99
This is one ofmy favorite muscadets fromone ofmy favorite muscadet producers. It’smade froma parcel of vines grown in a particular sort of fissured granite, and is aged for more than four years before it’s released. It’s dense, with great minerality, a creamy texture and incisive acidity, yet still light on its feet. If you adhere to the old “R” monthmyth for eating oysters, this is your perfect September wine.
Goyo GarcíaViadero; Ribera del Duero Joven deViñasViejas 2018; $24.99
Goyo García Viadero is dedicated to farming and making wine with minimal intervention. This absolutely delicious wine comes from old vines of tempranillo that are simply fermented in steel vats and bottled, without the addition of sulfur dioxide, an almost universally used stabilizer. Thewine is vibrant and alive, with deep, pure flavors of dark fruits and flowers.
Manenti; Cerasuolo di Vittoria 2018; $26.99
Cerasuolo di Vittoria from the Vittoria region of southeastern Sicily combines the body and richness of nero d’Avola with the limber freshness of frappato. It’s almost always a winning combination, especially in the hands of sensitive farmers and producers likeMarita and GuglielmoManenti, a husband-and-wife team who farm organically. The result here is a sweet-and-bitter, earthy wine with lively acidity.
Anne-Sophie Dubois; Fleurie Les Cocottes 2019; $27.99
Anne-Sophie Dubois organically farms about 20 acres in Fleurie. She is one of a small number of Beaujolais
producers who generally do not use semicarbonic maceration, the typical winemaking method in the region. Instead, she makes her Fleuries in a method more typical in the rest of the winemakingworld, destemming the grapes and fermenting them in the usual fashion. Those wines often require some aging. However, with this cuvée she does use the semicarbonic technique, in which whole bunches of grapes are piled into large vats. Those on the bottom are crushed and begin to ferment, producing carbon dioxide, which induces a different, intracellular fermentation in the bunches on top. The result is a Fleurie that is great to drink now: fresh, energetic and pretty, with an underlying earthy note.
Division-Villages; Oregon GamayNoir Les Petits Fers 2019; $23.99
This American gamay is fun to contrast with the Dubois Fleurie. DivisionVillages is the easygoing, less-expensive label of DivisionWine, and though this wine is modeled on a Fleurie, it is more akin to a Beaujolais-Villages, as the name Division-Villages suggests. Like the Dubois, this is made using the semicarbonic method most common in Beaujolais. It doesn’t have the complexity or heft of the Fleurie, but it is delightful and insanely easy to drink.
Brand; Germany PetNat 2019; $28.99
The young Brand brothers, Daniel and Jonas, work naturally in the north of the Pfalz region. I’ve had a number of their wines, and they are all unpretentious and delicious, including this pétillant naturel, made with silvaner andweissburgunder, otherwise known as pinot blanc. It’s not complex or contemplative. It’s just a wine full of citrus and herbal goodness, perfect to go with snacks and a football game.