Ultimate warm comfort meal
Pot au feu, the classic boiled dinner, sounds so much more delightful in French
In January, I dream of warmth. Sunning on the beach in Tulum, Mexico, a stroll through the Rosedal garden in Buenos Aires, sitting by the waterfront in Key West. This year, I’ll make my own heat by lighting the fireplace, wrapping myself in soft wool and simmering something rich on the stove.
Working at home yields time to tinker over a simmering vessel. I’m thinking of the classic French pot au feu — a boiled dinner of beef, chicken, sausage and vegetables. The time investment yields a super-rich, meaty broth and tender proteins.
All boiled dinners, such as pot au feu and corned beef and cabbage, scale up and down easily. I make enough to have planned leftovers. The boiled beef and chicken make great warm sandwiches. Leftover broth (which freezes well) welcomes the additions of rice or pasta for a hearty soup and can become the base of a pot of risotto.
The recipe here easily makes eight servings (you can halve the recipe if you like; cooking time will be about the same). It takes little time to assemble as there is no browning before the simmer. You can choose from beef shank (rich and tender), chuck roast (flavorful and easy to find) or lean brisket. I like bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs for their flavor and moisture retention. If you like a hint of smokiness, add a chunk of bacon. Fresh sausage, likewise, adds flavor.
I serve the one-pot meal in two courses as they do in France. First, a cup of that rich broth with a chunk of good bread. Then, a platter of the cooked meats and vegetables to enjoy with condiments such as pickles, mustard and garlicky mayonnaise. The ultimate warm comfort meal.
The simmering pot reminds me of pho — that hearty, highly seasoned Vietnamese rice noodle broth bowl. It’s easy to steer the pot au feu in that direction by adding star anise (for a bit of licorice flavor), the warmth of cinnamon and a sprightly hint of fresh ginger. Turns out, all these ingredients permeate the meats in a beautiful way, too.
To make a speedy bowl of soup reminiscent of the warmth and flavors of pho, simply slice up the cooked proteins and vegetables, and add them back to the broth with soaked rice noodles, a splash of fish sauce, hot sauce and fresh lime. Garnish with minced green chile, plenty of green onion slices and fresh cilantro leaves. A squeeze of lime brightens all the flavors.
Perfect food after a brisk walk in the woods. Proof that January can be warm, after all.