If you visit

have no idea if that’s true, but they sure look like they could have.)

Of the 14 towers, visitors are allowed to climb the one at the newer City Hall — at 200 feet, the city’s tallest tower. A visit here also includes access to a small museum with festive frescoes that provide a peek at how people dressed, lived, worked, and warred in the 14th century.

Although San Gimignano is gorgeous, it is quite crowded, and during the middle of the day, it comes off as a pretty greedy place, with vendors everywhere vying for the tourist dollar. I find the charm of San Gimignano is easiest to enjoy after hours, when tourists have gone back to their buses, vendors have made their money and the town recaptures its magic. Smart travelers go there late in the day and stay overnight.

Though San Gimignano has perfectly good accommodations, if you want to get the full dose of that salt-of-the-earth Tuscan magic, stay in the countryside surrounding the town, either at a bed-and-breakfast or an “agriturismo” (a small, working farm that rents out rooms). At many of these places, visitors can enjoy fine food, a swimming pool, a serene setting and the company of other travelers — just good Tuscan living. Sleeping: www.palazzoaltorrione.com). gimignano.com). Eating: www.accommodation-san Getting around: No driving is allowed within the walled town, so you’ll have to go by foot or take the little electric shuttle bus that does laps around town. Tourist information: www.sangimignano.com.

No matter where you stay, eating dinner at one of San Gimignano’s restaurants provides a fine opportunity to sample typical Tuscan home cooking. “Cinghiale” (wild boar) is made into stews, soups, and — my favorite — salami. The area is well-known for producing some of the best saffron in Italy; you’ll find the spice for sale in shops and as a flavoring in meals at finer restaurants. Although Tuscany is normally a red-wine region, the most famous Tuscan white wine comes from here: the inexpensive, light, and fruity Vernaccia di San Gimignano.

After dinner, the empty streets are yours to savor. Enjoying San Gimignano at night gives you a chance to experience the romantic Tuscan town you’ve been dreaming about.

CAMERON HEWITT/RICK STEVES’ EUROPE Today’s tourists hang out at San Gimignano’s Piazza della Cisterna, by the same well locals used 1,000 years ago.

RICK STEVES/RICK STEVES’ EUROPE San Gimignano is an amazingly well-preserved Italian hill town in Tuscany, with 14 medieval towers still standing. On an untrampled side street, Palazzo al Torrione has 10 spacious and tasteful rooms (moderate, In the countryside below town, Ponte a...