If you go

Sleeping: Golden Lion Guest House is basic but well-located, with 11 small, dated rooms off the Main Market Square (budget,

www.goldenlion.pl). Hotel Maltanski has 16 rooms in the beautifully renovated former royal stables (splurge, www.donimir ski.com/hotel-maltanski).

Eating: Pod Nosem (Under the Nose) is a smart choice for refined Polish cuisine in a sophisticated, less touristy atmosphere (Kanonicza 22, phone: 12-3760014). Restauracja Samoobslugowa (selfservice) Polakowski is a low-key Kazimierz spot with country-kitchen decor and cheap, tasty Polish fare (Wszystkich Swietych 10, phone: 12-430-2156). Getting around: While the urban sprawl is big, the tourist’s Krakow feels small; from the main square, you can walk to just about everything of interest in less than 15 minutes. Tourist information: www.infokrakow.pl