Sun Sentinel Palm Beach Edition

Drop the little umbrella; these rums can stand on their own

- By Laura Riley Los Angeles Times

Rum is not the new whiskey. Rum is rum, and it is delicious — or at least it can be. Made from sugar cane and most often mixed with molasses, rum naturally has some sweetness to it. Some critics may characteri­ze it as too sweet, but what often gives rum its cloying sweetness is actually a chaser, or the insistence of the mass production brands to focus more on the rum’s mixability and potency rather than flavor. Rum can be refreshing in cocktail form — there’s nothing wrong with a mai tai or mojito as simple pleasures. But if you really want to experience rum, consider having it neat, on the rocks or with a splash of water.

Here are seven rums that can and should be enjoyed by themselves.

Hailing from Trinidad and Tobago, the Angostura company is well known for its bitters, but it also produces aged rums. Angostura 1919 is a good introducti­on for those who appreciate rum’s sweetness but want to try something more refined. It’s a blend of aged rums that has a strong vanilla-caramel aroma that melts straight into the flavor of a Werther’s Original candy.

$35

The distillery has been crafting rums for over 265 years, and the soil in its area of Jamaica provides ideal sugar cane growing conditions. The rum is delicate with oak and molasses and finishes bitterswee­t.

$34

Aging in virgin Limousin barriques (French oak) and recharred bourbon casks results in a rum that has a meaty fruit taste, with hints of fig, grape and pear, surrounded by more herbal peppery notes.

$33

Coming in rich and strong, this rum is made by large producer Demerara Distillers in South America, but no quality is lost in the scale of the operation. The color of the deep mahogany rum, a result of the fermented molasses, hints at the rum’s even deeper taste that leaves a bourbon-like spice mix with zero burn.

$50

This blend has the full body taste of a Jamaican rum, with a hint of allspice. This complex taste could be too heavy, but in this 17-year-old’s case it’s not, as it combines with a lighter Spanish style. Because of its age and open fermentati­on process, the rum has a fabulous funk to it, especially at the end of a sip. Its nose: bananas followed by an aged-cheese flavor. And it packs a punch at 100 proof. Port Cask Finish is a blend that passes through a double maturation process, aging three years in ex-bourbon barrels, followed by six years in exruby port barrels. The taste of port is discernibl­e but does not overpower the rum’s bitterswee­t dark chocolate and black-pepper-forward herb bouquet.

$35 $60

Not many rums are as balanced as Santa Teresa. It is hard to pick out distinct scents, but orange and lime rise to the top. Aged in American and French barrels for more than 25 years using the Solera system, the balanced taste ends in a light wood flavor. This is a rum to fall in love with.

$40

 ?? FOURSQUARE RUM DISTILLERY ?? Among FourSquare’s cask-aged rums, the Port Cask Finish is especially distinctiv­e.
FOURSQUARE RUM DISTILLERY Among FourSquare’s cask-aged rums, the Port Cask Finish is especially distinctiv­e.

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