Overnight success

Sourdough pancakes can be your secret weapon for holiday guests Sourdough whole wheat pancakes

delicate tang of sourdough starter can influence everything from pancakes to pretzels, quick breads, pizza crust and biscuits.

Raising pancakes with yeast is an old American tradition that predates the invention of baking powder. The overnight proofing develops the flavor of the flours, and the yeast ensures lightness.

With little effort and planning, sourdough can transform pancakes for your overnight holiday guests. Pancakes are more economical to cook at home than eat out, plus the cook looks like a hero — as most of the preparation is done the night before.

My favorite sourdough pancake recipe starts with a version from our 1975 edition of “The Doubleday Cookbook.” I substitute whole wheat flour for a portion of the all-purpose flour for a nutty flavor. I admit that I rarely keep any of the starter due to an alwayscrowded refrigerator. Instead, I simply plan ahead a day or so.

At this time of the year, I serve the pancakes with an easy fruit compote made from colorful dried fruits. The mixture can be made several days in advance and refrigerated. Warm it a bit in the microwave before serving. Prep: 15 minutes 20 minutes Rise: 1 hour plus overnight about 18 (3-inch) cakes, serving 4 cups whole milk tablespoons plus a generous pinch sugar packet active dry yeast cups all-purpose flour cup whole wheat flour eggs, lightly beaten tablespoons melted butter or sunflower or safflower oil teaspoon salt Soft butter and/or sunflower or safflower oil for cooking Cranberry-apricot-fig compote, see recipe (or pure maple syrup or confectioners’ sugar) Put milk and 2 tablespoons sugar into a microwave-safe bowl. Microwave on high (100 percent power) until the milk is very hot, about 2 minutes. Stir to dissolve the sugar. Let cool to lukewarm (105 to 115 degrees). Put ¼ cup warm water (105 to 115 degrees) into a large bowl. Add a generous pinch of sugar and the yeast. Stir to dissolve, then let stand until bubbly, 2 or 3 minutes. Stir in cooled milk. Slowly whisk in the flours until the mixture is smooth. Cover the bowl with a towel and let stand in a warm place until doubled in bulk, about 30 minutes. Then, without stirring, cover the bowl loosely with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight. The next day, remove the bowl from the refrigerator so it can warm up for about 20 minutes. Meanwhile, heat oven to 200 degrees. Place a baking sheet in the oven. Stir the batter, then gently fold in the eggs, melted butter and salt. Heat a large nonstick griddle or skillet over medium heat until a drop of water sprinkled on the surface evaporates on contact. Swirl some butter and oil over the griddle. Add 2 or 3 small ladlefuls of the batter onto the surface, allowing plenty of space between pancakes. Use the back of the ladle to spread the batter into a circle about 3 inches in diameter. Cook until bubbles form on the surface and the underside is golden brown, about 2 minutes. Flip the cakes and cook to brown the other side, about 1 minute. Transfer pancakes to the baking sheet in the oven while you cook remaining batter. Serve hot with the cranberry apricot compote, maple syrup or sugar. 404 calories, 13 g fat, 7 g saturated fat, 119 mg cholesterol, 59 g carbohydrates, 12 g sugar, 14 g protein, 375 mg sodium, 3 g fiber

E. JASON WAMBSGANS/CHICAGO TRIBUNE; MARK GRAHAM/FOOD STYLING