Sweden’s Glass Country sparkles

with plush hotel, art glass gallery and a discount seconds shop. But there are many friendly independent producers scattered throughout the woods, where you’ll be invited into a simple barnlike studio to watch glassblowers at work (nearly all demonstrations are free; for more information, see www.glasriket.se).

Glass Country also sustains the only artisan papermaking workshop in Scandinavia. Tucked next to a giant modern paper plant, the tiny 300-year-old Lessebo mill follows each hands-on step for making fine paper: soaking cotton and linen fibers until they become pulp, packing the fiber into a frame, then pressing, drying, glazing, and hand-tearing the paper into the perfect size and shape. Swedes covet this traditional paper for special-occasion invitations and announcements (daily tours; www.lessebo papper.se).

If art’s not your thing, check out local critters at the Moose and Farm Animal Park. At this offbeat attraction ( just outside the village of Kosta), you’ll walk through the moose-happy gift shop before taking a mile-long stroll around the perimeter of a pen holding live moose. Life-size dioramas with stuffed moose (including one plastered to the hood of a car) round out the attraction. You can even buy moose sausage to grill on-site.

Because the 70-mile stretch of the Glass Country is relatively undeveloped, most visitors tour the glassworks by day, then sprint to the nearby coastal town of Kalmar for dinner and a bed. History students may remember Kalmar as the place where Norway, Sweden and Denmark signed a 1397 treaty that united their countries into one huge kingdom. That union lasted about 100 years before dissolving in the 16th century ... and since then, even the European Union hasn’t been able put them back together again.

Historic Kalmar has an Old World ambience that’s rare in Scandinavia. It’s dominated by a moated castle that’s a great medieval experience. With stout watchtowers, park-like ramparts and a creaky, drafty interior, this place was a royal hub for centuries. But when the Swedish border shifted south in the mid-17th century, the castle lost its strategic importance. No matter — it’s now the biggest attraction in Kalmar and well worth a visit.

Besides the famous castle, the town offers a cozy, cobblestoned center. For a small city, you’ll find a surprising number of good dining options. The restaurants survive on the town’s short, intense summer season, when vacationing Swedes make the streets lively day and night. If you drop by the cafe/tea parlor Kullzenska, tucked into an 18th-century house, you’ll be surrounded by locals enjoying warm berry cobbler and richly brewed coffee — the classic Swedish “fika,” or coffee break.

If you’re lucky enough to be in Kalmar on a hot summer day, stroll out to its beach — a festive and happy slice of Swedish life. With snack stands, sand castles and views of the castle, the beach makes Kalmar an unexpected fun-in-the-sun stop.

For people-watchers, it’s a combination of Swedish beauty pageant and tattoo show. For me, it’s the best possible dose of authentic, off-the-beaten-path Sweden.

DOMINIC ARIZONA BONUCCELLI/RICK STEVES’ EUROPE Historic Kalmar has an Old World ambience that’s rare in Scandinavia. It’s dominated by a moated castle — with stout watchtowers, parklike ramparts and a creaky, drafty interior — that was a royal hub for centuries.