The perfect pie for the holidays

Pear and dried, sweet cranberries a union that speaks to the season.

We are a family of pie bakers. Long before the holiday season, we discuss our favorite pie flavors. Then we divvy up who gets to make what. I’m partial to cream pies while Mom is the queen of lemon meringue and creamy chocolate varieties. One niece is perfecting her pumpkin pie skills; my son prefers to bake fruit pies.

Homemade pie fillings prove easy. Crust not so much. Practice makes perfect. With every pie, our skills improve. It’s an acquired art to turn out flaky, beautiful crust. My mother regularly reminds us of her early crust adventures — many of which ended in the garbage can. No worries, she says, the crust ingredients cost far less than the filling.

Of course, when pressed for time, I substitute storebought frozen crusts. Any freshly baked pie — with or without a homemade crust — is better than most storebought versions.

Pretty, lattice-topped pies have the added benefit of allowing more fruit juice evaporation while the pie bakes. Precooking the fruit for any pie helps ensure that the thickener is cooked through; I especially employ this technique when working with cornstarch or flour-thickened pie fillings. This also allows the cook to work in advance — a bonus around the busy holiday season.

This fall, we are loving the combination of juicy, sweet Bartlett pears with tart cranberries for a gorgeous pie with hues of pink; a few crisp apples and chewy dried cranberries contribute contrasting textures. Feel free to skip the latticework and simply add a top crust; pierce the top crust in several places with a fork to allow steam to escape. For added flavor and texture, I brush the top crust with cream and sprinkle it generously with coarse sugar before baking.

ABEL URIBE/CHICAGO TRIBUNE; SHANNON KINSELLA/FOOD STYLING Pears and cranberries partner for a fall-forward pie of flavor and textural contrasts, with fresh and dried versions of the berries playing off each other.