Sun Sentinel Palm Beach Edition
Taverna Opa freshens up with modern Greek in Delray Beach
270 E. Atlantic Ave., Delray Beach, 561-303-3602, TavernaOpa.com
Just as families hand down recipes, Greek native Peter Tsialiamanis is passing down the restaurants of his small South Florida empire.
“I grew up in the kitchens of my dad’s restaurants,” says Sophia Theodore, who takes over this 5-year-old location from her father. “We’re at a landmark of 20 years now.”
She’s referring to the original Hollywood location, which became known for its boisterous table dancing, flying paper napkins and belly dancing after Tsialiamanis founded it in 1998.
“We’re transitioning from the old Opa,” says Sophia’s husband, John Theodore, who wants to broaden the appeal to executive types. “I wanted to freshen it up and modernize.”
The couple has tweaked the décor by whitewashing the dark wood tables and a new banquette. They’ve also installed a fresh seafood display and expanded the sidewalk seating with olive trees to come.
“I’m more of a generational cook,” says John, whose arm tattoos depict four Greek key patterns. “We’re bringing more authenticity. It’s going to be very village style.”
They have added the Greek names for the dishes to the menu, such as the new vegetable stew called arakas ($6), fried smelts ($11), grilled sardines ($13), lamb shank ($22), grilled whole red snapper ($28) and grilled long bone pork chop ($28). Chopped roast pork is served Greek festival-style on wax paper on Fridays and Saturdays ($12 per pound).
“Lamb is big for holidays in Greece, but pork is the dominant meat,” says John, who is planning to import oil from his 70 acres of olive trees in Greece.
Greek mastiha liqueur laces a couple of the new cocktails: the Skinos Fresh with gin, cucumber, lemon and mint and the Opa Lemonade (both $12).