Sun Sentinel Palm Beach Edition
French eatery L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon debuts
L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon
151 NE 41st St., Suite 235, Miami, 305-402-9070, LatelierMiami.com
The world lost one of its most illustrious, influential restaurateurs when Joël Robuchon died a year ago.
But that’s not stopping South Florida from finally gaining its first Robuchon outpost in the acclaimed portfolio of 23 restaurants scattered around the world — nearly a dozen of those branded as L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon.
“The Miami location will be the first restaurant opening after he passed,” says culinary director Christophe Bellanca, who discovered the space with Robuchon when they were in Miami for an event. “For myself and the team, it is important to respect his legacy and pay attention to every detail. We think about this every day while upholding his exceptionally high standards and mentoring a new generation of great cooks.”
Robuchon, a French master chef known for scrambling the tradition of haute cuisine with his lighthearted innovation, made history by earning a record-breaking 32 Michelin stars.
“What we offer is very different; it is an experience,” says Bellanca, Robuchon’s longtime protégé. “We certainly hope it will be a dining destination that will attract people from around South Florida.”
That experience comes to pass around the glow of a 34-seat, red LED-lit chef ’s counter overlooking an open kitchen — a hallmark of L’Atelier. The Design District’s Paradise Plaza is home to the Miami outpost, which opened Aug. 28 on the second floor above the new Le Jardinier by the same owners.
“Melding the style of a Japanese dining counter with the format of Spanish tapas and fine-dining French cuisine creates a unique concept,” he says. “It is a lively and friendly dining experience where you’re able to interact with the chefs, sommelier and your servers in a personal way. The tapas-style makes it easy to share dishes and taste many plates a la carte, and the counter allows for guests to connect with one another.”
Dinner is served Tuesday through Saturday amid an intimate ambiance. The warmth of custom red leather Italian seating contrasts a sleek black backdrop of flame-brushed granite flooring and black acoustical ceilings.
“The Miami space looks very similar to the others: bold colors, polished wood walls, dramatic lighting,” Bellanca says.
Signature dishes with artistic presentations include crispy langoustine papillote ($19) and caramelized free-range quail, foie gras and potato purée ($38). But nothing is more iconic than Robuchon’s mashed potatoes.
“It is a perfect representation of the genius he was — taking one of the simplest foods and elevating it through immense attention to detail, precision and quality of ingredients,” Bellanca says. “Using a good amount of high-quality butter is also one of the secrets.”
New creations include zebra tomatoes with king crab and wasabi tofu ($28) and grilled Wagyu rib cap with wild basil pesto ($32).
Several tasting menus allow for deeper exploration, such as the fivecourse seasonal summer menu for $135.
“Even when we develop new dishes, we always keep Chef Robuchon’s principles in mind while finding new ways to express our own creativity as chefs and offer diners something new to discover,” Bellanca says.