How to put together great dinners with frozen fish or canned seafood

My freezer and pantry shelves overflow. And not just during a health crisis. The pantry shelves of most food professionals hold a variety of grains, canned chiles, condiments and broth. We utilize freezers for a convenient supply of fish and poultry, as well as to stock up on the season’s best fruits, vegetables and herbs.

Frozen fish in many cases proves far superior to the “thawed for your convenience” items at the supermarket. I prefer to have control over the defrosting. Thawed properly, in the refrigerator, seafood maintains its flavor and texture all the way to the dinner table. I regularly stock frozen salmon, cod and halibut fillets as well as shrimp and scallops.

Look at the labeling for frozen fish: Ideally it says frozen at sea. That way, you’ll know the fish was frozen at its peak flavor and texture. Always, and I mean always, thaw fish in the refrigerator — never at room temperature or under running water as this quick-thawing seriously destroys the final texture.

We look forward to a variety of Alaskan fish from a CSF (community supported fishery), called

Sitka Salmon Shares (sitkasalmonshares.com), arriving on our porch. Sitka features sustainable, responsibly fished wild Alaskan sockeye and King salmon, plus other fish, that are shipped right to the house. Wildalaskancompany.com is another excellent mail-order source. Be sure to have freezer space available — the more you order the lower the cost per pound.

I like boneless fillets of wild Alaskan sockeye in the sauteed fish recipe that follows. Other options include flounder, cod, tilapia, haddock, snapper or halibut. Nearly any fish fillet will work as long as it’s not too thick or too thin; ¾-inch thick cooks beautifully in a skillet.

Always check the fillets for bones by running your finger over the fillet; use tweezers to remove the bones. Remove the fish skin if you wish.

To enjoy crispy skin, start the cooking skin side up to brown the flesh, then flip the fillet skin side down to finish the cooking.

Start the reduction for the butter sauce before cooking the fish, then finish the sauce by whisking in the butter after the fish is cooked.

Slow-simmered, nutty textured farro makes an excellent companion to mild, tender fish. Farro, a type of wheat high in protein and fiber with lots of minerals and vitamins, proves more nutritious than white rice or refined grains. Look for farro in the natural food section of large supermarkets. If stores are sold out, try ordering it online from Bob’s Red Mill or

Rancho Gordo.

Farro cooks easily by simmering in water or broth until tender. To season it, stir in a generous amount of any fresh herbs on hand — new spring chives, parsley, cilantro and dill or simply the tops from green onions.

I use tinned fish when the freezer stocks are low and to avoid a trip to the store. Canned clams, seasoned with white wine, garlic, Parmesan and a bit of cream, make a restaurantquality pasta dish we enjoy all year long. Optional tinned green chiles and anchovy fillets add salt and umami satisfaction.

ABEL URIBE/CHICAGO TRIBUNE PHOTOS; SHANNON KINSELLA/FOOD STYLING Frozen salmon fillets are quickly sauteed in a skillet, then paired with an herb butter and served with farro, a type of wheat high in protein and fiber.