Pasta alla gricia (rigatoni with pancetta and pecorino Romano)

Makes: 6 servings

8 ounces pancetta, sliced 1⁄4-inch thick

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

1 pound rigatoni

1 teaspoon coarsely ground pepper, plus extra for serving

1 cup pecorino Romano cheese, grated fine, plus extra for serving

1. Slice each round of pancetta into rectangular pieces that measure about 1⁄2 inch-by-1 inch.

2. Heat pancetta and oil in large Dutch oven over medium-low heat, stirring frequently, until fat is rendered and pancetta is deep golden brown but still has slight pinkish hue, 8 to 10 minutes, adjusting heat as necessary to keep pancetta from browning too quickly.

3. Using slotted spoon, transfer pancetta to bowl; set aside. Pour fat from pot into liquid measuring cup (you should have around 1⁄3 cup fat; discard any extra over 1⁄3 cup). Return fat to Dutch oven.

4. While pancetta cooks, set the colander in large bowl. Bring 2 quarts water to boil in large pot. Add pasta and cook, stirring often, until al dente. Drain pasta in prepared colander, reserving cooking water.

5. Add pepper and 2 cups reserved cooking water to the Dutch oven with fat and bring to boil over high heat. Boil mixture rapidly, scraping up any browned bits, until emulsified and reduced to 1 1⁄2 cups, about 5 minutes. (If you’ve reduced it too far, add more reserved cooking water to equal 1 1⁄2 cups.) 6. Reduce heat to low, add pasta and pancetta, and stir to evenly coat. Add pecorino Romano and stir until cheese is melted and sauce is slightly thickened, about 1 minute. Off heat, adjust sauce consistency with remaining reserved cooking water as needed. Transfer pasta to platter and serve immediately, passing extra pepper and extra cheese separately.

Notes: If you can find guanciale, we recommend increasing the browning time in Step 2 to 10 to 12 minutes. Because we call for cutting the pancetta to a specified thickness, we recommend having it cut to order at the deli counter.