Spicy meatballs with chickpeas

Total time: 1 hour

Makes: 4 to 6 servings (about 30 meatballs)

For the meatballs:

1 1⁄2 pounds ground lamb (or substitute ground beef, pork or turkey)

1⁄2 cup raw arborio rice or any white rice, rinsed and drained

2 teaspoons kosher salt

1 teaspoon toasted ground cumin

1 teaspoon toasted ground coriander

1⁄2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1⁄2 cup finely diced onion

3 garlic cloves, grated or minced

For the gravy:

Extra-virgin olive oil

1⁄2 cup finely diced onion

Kosher salt

Pinch of saffron, crumbled, steeped in 1⁄4 cup warm water (optional)

1 teaspoon toasted ground cumin

1⁄2 teaspoon red-pepper flakes, or to taste

1 (2-inch) cinnamon stick 1 (28-ounce) can plum tomatoes with their juices

1 cup chicken or beef broth (or chickpea cooking liquid)

6 cups cooked chickpeas

1⁄2 cup chopped parsley, cilantro or a combination

1. Heat oven to 350 degrees. Make the meatballs: In a large bowl, combine ground lamb, raw rice, salt, cumin, coriander, cinnamon, onion and garlic. Knead mixture well.

2. Coat a sheet pan or roasting pan lightly with olive oil. With wet hands, form mixture into 1-ounce meatballs and arrange in one layer on pan. Bake, uncovered, for about 15 minutes, until lightly browned. Remove and let cool slightly.

3. Meanwhile, make the gravy: Place a wide heavy-bottomed pot or Dutch oven over medium heat. Add 2 tablespoons olive oil. When oil is hot, add onion, sprinkle lightly with salt and cook, stirring until softened and just beginning to brown, about 10 minutes.

4. Add saffron with soaking water, cumin, red-pepper flakes and cinnamon stick. Crush tomatoes with your hands, and add to pot, along with all tomato juices. Raise heat to medium-high, add broth and bring to a simmer. Taste and add more salt or red-pepper flakes as needed. Carefully add meatballs and adjust heat to a gentle simmer. Cover and cook for 30 minutes.

5. Warm 2 tablespoons olive oil in a wide skillet over medium-high heat. Add chickpeas and a splash of water and heat through. Season to taste with salt. Sprinkle with chopped parsley or cilantro. Serve each diner 5 or 6 meatballs and plenty of gravy. Add a large spoonful of chickpeas on the side.