Cheesy babka with ricotta and herbs

Makes: 8 servings Total time: 3 1⁄2 hours, plus rising

For the dough:

1⁄3 cup whole milk

1 1 ⁄ teaspoons active dry or instant

2 yeast

Pinch of sugar

2 1⁄2 cups bread flour, or use all-purpose

1 teaspoon fine sea salt

2 large eggs at room temperature, lightly beaten

1⁄4 cup unsalted butter at room temperature, plus more as needed

For the filling:

1 cup fresh ricotta, or use cottage cheese, soft goat cheese or cream cheese

1⁄4 cup grated Parmesan, plus more for sprinkling

3 tablespoons finely chopped herbs, such as basil, mint, parsley, thyme leaves or cilantro, or a combination

1 scallion, finely chopped

1 garlic clove, finely grated

2 tablespoons chopped ham, prosciutto, salami or olives (optional)

Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

1. In a small saucepan on the stovetop or in a bowl in the microwave, warm the milk until lukewarm, but not hot (about 110 degrees). Add yeast and pinch of sugar, and let sit for 5 to 10 minutes until slightly foamy.

2. In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the dough hook, a food processor or using a large bowl and a wooden spoon, mix the flour and salt. Beat or process in the yeast mixture and eggs until the dough comes together in a soft mass, about 2 minutes. It’s OK if a little flour remains on the bottom of the bowl.

3. Add half the butter and beat until dough is smooth and elastic, about 3 minutes, scraping down the sides of the bowl with a spatula as needed. Beat in the rest of the butter and continue to beat until dough is stretchy, another 5 to 7 minutes. At this point, all the flour should be worked into the dough. If not, add a teaspoon or two of water, and beat for another minute.

4. Butter a clean bowl. Form the dough into a ball and roll it around in the bowl so all sides are buttered. Cover the bowl with a plate or dish towel, and let the dough rise in a warm, draft-free place, like the inside of a turned-off oven with the oven light on, until it puffs and rises, anywhere from 1 1⁄2 to 3 hours. It may not double in bulk, but it should rise.

5. Press the dough down with your hands to expel the air, cover the bowl again and refrigerate

overnight. (In a pinch, you could chill the dough for 4 hours, but it won’t develop as much flavor.)

6. Prepare the filling: In a medium bowl, mix all the ingredients until smooth. Taste and add more salt and black pepper, if needed. (If you used ham or olives, you probably won’t need more salt.) Filling can be prepared up to 2 hours ahead and refrigerated.

7. Butter a 9-inch loaf pan, then line with parchment paper, leaving 2 inches of overhang for pulling the babka out later.

8. Put the dough on a floured surface and roll it into a 9-by-17-inch rectangle. Spread the filling evenly onto the dough, going all the way to the edge. Starting with a long side, roll into a tightly coiled log. Bring one end of the log to meet the other, then twist the dough, pinching together the ends to seal.

9. Place dough into prepared pan. Cover loosely

with 1a2clean towel and let rise in a warm place for 1 to 1 ⁄ hours, until puffy. (It won’t quite double.)

10. Heat oven to 375 degrees. Brush the top of the babka with more softened butter and sprinkle with Parmesan. Bake until the top is deeply golden brown, 35 to 45 minutes. The babka should sound hollow if you tap it on the bottom once it’s unmolded. An instant-read thermometer inserted in the center will read 185 degrees. Transfer to a wire rack. Babka is best served still a little warm.