EMBRACING THE POTATO

There are so many delicious ways to prepare them: steamed, boiled, baked, mashed, smashed, roasted or fried

Cheap, nourishing, eminently available and fuss-free, the humble potato is just the thing for these days and weeks of stay-athome, nearly nonstop cooking.

Potatoes have always had mass appeal. And I find them beyond appealing, really. How deep is my love for potatoes? The mere mention of them makes my pulse race, starts me salivating, makes my mouth water and drool.

Potatoes are undeniably delicious, and there are so many ways to prepare them — steamed, boiled, baked, mashed, smashed, roasted or fried. Simply slathered with butter or anointed with olive oil, the only seasoning required is a little salt. But a sprinkling of black pepper from the mill or a dab of sour cream or a bit of chopped parsley, green onion or chives improves the experience for not much extra effort.

These basic preparations reveal but the iceberg’s tip. There are an endless number of potato soups, pancakes, stews, stuffings, soufflés. Gratins, gnocchi, salads, samosas, pies. Every culture has a potato repertoire, which means a potato lover’s opportunities are without boundary.

Under the best circumstances, you can count on tender new potatoes in the spring and summer. Red-skinned boilers, earthy russets, yellow-fleshed Yukon, purple Peruvians and diminutive fingerlings are normally obtainable throughout the year. For the recipes that follow, medium-sized yellow potatoes are ideal, with russets as a second choice.

These dishes may be considered the first course, main course or side. Personally, I relish the opportunity to make a meal of potatoes only.

Makes: 4 appetizer servings Total time: 30 minutes

For the potatoes:

2 pounds yellow-fleshed or russet potatoes, peeled and cut in 1

½-inch chunks

Kosher salt

½ cup extra-virgin olive oil

1 head garlic, separated into cloves but not peeled

For the salsa brava:

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 garlic cloves, minced

2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

1 tablespoon tomato paste

1 tablespoon pimentón dulce, or use sweet paprika

1 teaspoon pimentón picante,

½ teaspoon chipotle chile powder or ¼ teaspoon cayenne

1 cup chicken broth or water

1 tablespoon sherry vinegar

Kosher salt

For the allioli:

2 egg yolks

4 garlic cloves, pounded, finely minced or grated

1½ cups extra-virgin olive oil

Kosher salt and black pepper

1. Heat oven to 450 degrees. Put potato chunks in a large bowl, season generously with salt and toss to coat. Leave for a few minutes to let potatoes absorb salt. Add olive oil and unpeeled garlic cloves and toss to coat well. (Don’t skimp on the oil; it can be strained and saved after cooking for future use.)

2. Transfer potatoes (and garlic cloves) and oil to a large cast-iron skillet or heavy roasting pan. Make sure to have potatoes in a single layer without crowding. (If necessary, use two pans.) There should be a good 1⁄2-inch oil in the bottom of the pan. Add more if required.

3. Place pan in oven and roast for 15 to 20 minutes, until potato chunks are well browned on the bottom. With a metal spatula, carefully turn chunks over. Reduce heat to 400 degrees, and continue roasting until potatoes are well browned and crisp, about another 15 to 20 minutes.

4. While potatoes are roasting, make the two sauces. For the salsa brava, put 2 tablespoons olive oil in a small saucepan over medium heat. Add garlic and let sizzle without browning, then stir in flour and let mixture sizzle. Stir in tomato paste, pimentón dulce and pimentón picante, then add chicken broth gradually, stirring well as the sauce thickens. Bring to a gentle simmer, add vinegar and cook for 5 minutes until the sauce has a gravylike consistency, but isn’t too thick. Thin with a little more broth or water, if necessary. Season with salt to taste.

5. For the allioli, put egg yolks and garlic in a mortar or small bowl and whisk together. (Alternatively, use a mini food processor or stick blender, see note.) Add oil a few drops at a time, whisking vigorously with each addition. As the sauce thickens, add olive oil a teaspoon at a time. If the aioli gets too thick, whisk in 1 tablespoon water, then continue to whisk in remaining oil. The finished sauce should have the consistency of softly whipped cream. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

6. When potatoes are ready, use spatula to transfer to a pan lined with paper towels to blot, then to a warm serving dish. Sprinkle lightly with salt. Serve warm with the two sauces.

Tips: To make in a blender or food processor, use 1 whole egg and 1 egg yolk instead of only yolks. Drizzle oil in a thin stream with motor running until the sauce thickens, which takes only a minute or so. Transfer to a small bowl, then thin with a little water and season with salt and pepper.

ANDREW SCRIVANI/NYT