A vegetarian picnic feast

Start with a black bean burger topped with a fried egg

Lately, I have had vegetarian burgers on the brain. Perhaps it has something to do with sitting outdoors on a recent warm summer evening, as lighter fluid perfumed the neighborhood, followed by the acrid smoky aroma of beef fat dripping on glowing charcoal briquettes. It didn’t make me crave red meat.

Though I do appreciate the occasional burger with all the trimmings, a big pile of fries and an ice-cold beer, my dinners at home have been largely vegetarian of late.

But I wasn’t after the handcrafted veggie burger you’ve seen in food magazines, photographed to look not just like a burger, but the best-looking burger you’ve ever seen. I envisioned a homely black bean burger that wasn’t like that at all. I wanted it to taste like really good refried beans.

I planned to emphasize, not disguise, the black beans in the mixture, and I definitely did not want to add breadcrumbs or filler to make it firm. I wanted it to be highly seasoned, with cumin, cilantro, scallions, green chile and pimentón.

For body, I added cooked brown rice, which seemed a compatible

choice. I hand-mashed the mixture for maximum texture. To bind, I used cornstarch and egg. Then I dusted the patties on both sides with fine cornmeal and pan-fried them.

To me, this was an extremely delicious burger — tender, with a pleasantly crisp exterior.

Suddenly it occurred to me that a fried egg on top would be a nice addition. In France, when a beef burger is topped with an egg, it’s called à cheval (on horseback), so the idea isn’t without precedent.

There would be Mexican-style jalapeño pickles on the side. A big chopped salad too. And for dessert, strawberry-coconut ice cream made into a cake.

Here was a fine vegetarian picnic for staying at home, inside or out.

2 quarts strawberries, preferably small, pretty ones

3⁄4 cup sugar, plus 3 tablespoons for sauce

1 cup coconut milk

1⁄2 teaspoon kosher salt

1 tablespoon vodka

1 cup heavy cream

1 cup toasted coconut flakes, for garnish (see note)

Basil or mint leaves, for garnish

1. Briefly rinse berries with cold water, then lay them out on a clean tea towel. Hull berries, except for a dozen or so pretty ones. Set those aside for garnish.

2. Put 1 pound hulled berries in a blender or food processor. Reserve the rest for sauce and garnish. Add 3⁄4 cup sugar, coconut milk, salt and vodka. Blend until smooth. You should have about 4 cups.

3. In a chilled bowl, whip heavy cream until stiff. With a rubber spatula, gradually fold strawberry purée into whipped cream, 1⁄2 cup at a time, until well incorporated. It’s OK if a few swirls remain.

4. Pour into an 8-inch springform pan about 3 inches deep or into a similar-size Pyrex pie pan or ceramic dish. Freeze for 4 to 6 hours, until quite firm. (Test with a skewer or paring knife, going all the way to the bottom of the pan. It should come out clean.)

5. Make the strawberry sauce: Put remaining berries in a blender with 3 tablespoons sugar. Purée and transfer to a pitcher or serving bowl. Cover and refrigerate.

6. If using springform pan, unmold frozen cake and transfer to a cake plate. (Serve directly from glass or ceramic pan.) Sprinkle with toasted coconut flakes, and garnish with reserved berries dipped in a little of the sauce, and basil or mint leaves. Keep at room temperature for 10 to 15 minutes before serving. To serve, cut into wedges and drizzle with strawberry sauce.

Recipe note: To make toasted coconut flakes, simmer 1⁄4 cup water with 4 teaspoons sugar to dissolve. Add 1 cup unsweetened coconut flakes and mix to coat. Spread on a parchment-lined baking sheet, and bake at 325 degrees until golden, about 10 to 15 minutes. Check frequently, and stir once or twice for even browning. Cool before using.

ANDREW SCRIVANI/THE NEW YORK TIMES Although you can serve the well-seasoned black bean patty like a traditional burger — on a bun with the usual condiments — it is at its best topped with a fried egg.