Barbecued beef brisket

Makes: 15 to 24 servings

1 brisket flat, 5 to 8 pounds

1⁄4 cup salt

2 tablespoons brown sugar

2 1⁄4 teaspoons dry mustard, divided

2 teaspoons onion powder

2 teaspoons garlic powder

2 teaspoons dried basil

3⁄4 teaspoon ground coriander

1 1⁄4 teaspoons black pepper, divided

1 1⁄2 bay teaspoon leaf ground cumin

1⁄4 medium onion

1 clove garlic, smashed

1 rib celery, cut into a few pieces

1 bottle lager beer

1⁄4 teaspoon lemon zest

Juice from 1 lemon wedge

1 1⁄2 teaspoons soy sauce

1 1⁄2 teaspoons cider vinegar

Note: Begin this recipe the day before cooking. A heat deflector or the ability to set up a grill for indirect heat is necessary for this recipe.

1. Trim the fat from the brisket until it is 1⁄4 to 3⁄8 inch thick. Remove any of the tough silver skin from the beef. Place 2 (2- or 3-inch) chunks of oak, hickory, pecan or mesquite wood in water to soak, or put a handful of the wood chips in water.

2. In a small bowl, mix together the salt, brown sugar, 2 teaspoons of the dry mustard, onion powder, garlic powder, basil, coriander, 1 teaspoon of the black pepper and cumin. Reserve 1⁄4 cup of this mixture and rub the rest over brisket. Store brisket well-sealed overnight in a shallow pan or large bowl.

3. The next day, fill the firebox on a kamado grill. (If you do not have a heat deflector, arrange the charcoal for indirect heat). Place 1 wood chunk in the middle and the other about halfway between that one and the opposite side of the grill. If using wood chips, scatter them evenly on top of the charcoal.

4. Light a fire in one place only, along the side of the grill closest to you. Be sure to use a heat deflector if you have one. If you have the option of different levels for your grate, place it on the highest level. Bring the grill to 225 degrees. Meanwhile, bring the beef to room temperature.

5. Place the brisket on the grate fat-side up, close the lid and keep it closed for 2 hours — remember, “if you’re lookin’, it ain’t cookin’.”

6. Meanwhile, in a small pot mix together bay leaf, the reserved brisket rub, onion, garlic, celery, beer, remaining 1⁄4 teaspoon of dry mustard, remaining 1⁄4 teaspoon of black pepper, zest, lemon juice, soy sauce and cider vinegar. Bring to a simmer and cook about 30 minutes.

7. After the meat has been cooking for 2 hours, brush it liberally with some of the beer mixture. Cook for another 2 hours and brush it again.

8. At about 150 degrees or so, the rising internal temperature of the meat will stall. Don’t panic; the temperature will rise again. When the beef reaches an internal temperature of 165 degrees — after a total cooking time of 4 to 5 hours or more, depending on the size of the brisket — double wrap it in aluminum foil and return it to the grill. 9. Cook until beef reaches an internal temperature of 190 degrees, an additional 1 to 2 hours. Remove from grill and rest, still wrapped in its foil, for 45 minutes before serving. Slice against the grain in 1⁄4-inch slices and do not cut more than you will be serving at a time.