Swap the protein but keep the appeal of this rustic dish

The modern-day Italian American version of cacciatore typically contains bone-in chicken pieces in a garlicky, wine-enhanced tomato sauce studded with onions, peppers and mushrooms. For a fresh revamp, we decided to use bone-in pork chops that had just enough fat to work well when braised. The bone adds flavor, and using bone-in chops honors the spirit and tradition of the dish.

Pork cacciatore

Makes: 4 servings

4 (8- to 10-ounce) bone-in pork loin chops, 3⁄4- to 1-inch thick, trimmed

2 ½ teaspoons table salt, divided

2 teaspoons pepper

½ cup all-purpose flour

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

8 ounces cremini mushrooms, trimmed and quartered

1 red bell pepper, stemmed, seeded and chopped

1 onion, chopped (1 cup)

6 garlic cloves, sliced thin

3 sprigs fresh rosemary

½ teaspoon red pepper flakes

½ cup dry white wine

1 ½ cups canned crushed tomatoes

2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

1. Pat chops dry with paper towels. Sprinkle with 2 teaspoons salt and pepper. Place flour in a shallow dish. Working with 1 chop at a time, dredge in flour, shaking off excess; transfer chops to a baking sheet.

2. Heat oil in a 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Add chops and cook until browned, 3 to 5 minutes per side. Let excess oil drip from chops, then return chops to the baking sheet.

3. Add mushrooms, pepper, onion, garlic, rosemary sprigs, pepper flakes and remaining ½ teaspoon salt to the oil left in the skillet. Cook until vegetables are just softened, about 5 minutes, stirring occasionally.

4. Stir in wine and cook until nearly evaporated, 3 to 5 minutes. Add tomatoes and bring to a simmer. Reduce heat to low and cook for 5 minutes.

5. Nestle chops into sauce and cook until chops register 140 degrees, about 10 minutes, flipping halfway through cooking.

6. Transfer chops to a platter. Discard rosemary sprigs, then spoon sauce over chops. Sprinkle with parsley and serve.

Notes: White mushrooms can be substituted for the cremini. One 28-ounce can of crushed tomatoes will yield more than enough for this recipe.

STEVE KLISE/AMERICA’S TEST KITCHEN Serve the pork cacciatore with a good-size chunk of crusty bread to sop up the sauce.