THREE CHEESE AND SPINACH MANICOTTI

Makes: 4 to 6 servings, about 15 crepes

For the marinara sauce:

¼ cup olive oil

4 cloves garlic

1 28-ounce can San Marzano crushed plum tomatoes

Pinch red pepper flakes

Pinch dried oregano, optional

For the crepes:

4 eggs

½ cup water

½ cup milk

1 cup flour

Pinch of salt

For the filling:

16-ounce bag frozen chopped spinach, thawed and well drained 15-ounce container ricotta

½ cup grated pecorino Romano

1 cup shredded mozzarella

1. Prepare the sauce: Add olive oil to a medium saucepan set over medium-high heat. When it sizzles, add garlic and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add crushed tomatoes and 1 cup water, along with a pinch or two of red pepper flakes and oregano, if using. Stir to combine, then season to taste with a pinch or two of salt. Turn heat to medium-low and let simmer while you prepare crepes and filling.

2. Make the crepes: In medium bowl, whisk eggs, milk and water together until well combined. Slowly add flour, continually whisking until you have a smooth batter with the texture of heavy cream. Place in refrigerator to rest for at least 30 minutes. (This will make the crepes more tender.)

3. Prepare the filling: Place drained spinach in a clean dish towel or piece of cheesecloth and squeeze thoroughly to remove any last bits of water. Chop into small pieces and place in a large bowl.

Add ricotta, pecorino Romano, shredded mozzarella and a pinch of red pepper flakes. Taste, and add salt if it seems underseasoned.

4. Preheat oven to 375 degrees and lightly brush a 9-by-13-inch baking dish or two 8-by-8-inch pans with oil.

5. Make the crepes: Remove batter from fridge and whisk it briefly to dissolve any lumps. Heat an 8-inch nonstick pan over medium heat. (I used a cast-iron skillet, sprayed with a little cooking spray; you can also brush the pan with a little bit of melted butter.) Add a scant ¼ cup of batter (just enough to cover the bottom of the pan) and swirl it in a circle to spread a thin, even layer of batter on the bottom and up the sides of the pan. When crepe edges appear dry, about 30 seconds, use a rubber or offset spatula to carefully flip it over and continue cooking for another minute or so. Transfer to plate to cool, and repeat with remaining crepe batter. Don’t worry about stacking them — they won’t stick. (If you’re not using them right away, cover with plastic wrap and store in the refrigerator for up to two days.) You should get between 13-15 crepes.

6. Spread 2 generous tablespoons of cheese mixture across each crepe, and roll up burrito style. Spread a layer of marinara in the bottom of the baking pan(s) and place crepes seam-side down on top of sauce. Spread a little more sauce on top and sprinkle with additional pecorino Romano.

7. Cover with foil and bake for 2530 minutes, until sauce is bubbling and cheese is browned. Serve hot, with a little more grated cheese for passing.